索引（Index）

Page numbers in italics refer to illustration captions.

1800s 17

1920s 21,21

1930s 22,22

1940s–50s 23,23

1960s–70s 24,24–5

1980s 26,26

1990s 27,27

3D augmented reality (AR) 29

Abdollahi,Leyla 32

Allumer 139,141

American Jewelry Design Council New Talent Competition 155

Ancient Egyptians 8,10

apprenticeships 76,152

archiving 70,71,104

art deco 21,21

art nouveau 18,18–19

Arts and Crafts Movement 20,21

Assay Offices 114,115

associations and guilds 143,170

Atelier Swarovski 42,158,158,162–5,162–5

awards and sponsorship 155,170

Bjørg 7,12

blogs 66,68,125,141,148,170

Bohinc,Lara 47,47

Boodles 36,116,156,157

books 71

Boucheron 123,123,136

brand designer case study 156–7

brands

building 130,138–9,138–9

designer collaborations 43,158

‘DNA’30,56,63

establishing a new 47,124–5

fine jewellery 28,41

heritage and contemporary design 30,56–7,62

identity 136–7,136

logos 115,136

maker’s mark 115

mega 28,37

mid-market 37

starting 139

use of social media 142,143

bridal jewellery 27,102–3,102–3

brief,designer’s 84–5,85

British Crafts Council Awards 155

Brooks,Louise 21

Burton,Jocelyn 120

business development,head of 109

buyers 124–5,144

carat system 119

careers 150–67

careers advice 31,46,57,78,99,103,113,125,161,165

Cartier 18,27,136

categories,jewellery 36–7

catwalk jewellery 38–9,38–9,85

Leane’s collaboration with

McQueen 12,76,77

SWAROVSKI RUNWAY ROCKS 34,38,39,39,128,162–3

celebratory jewellery 27

Chanel,Coco 22,22

Cheshire,William 139,141

Christian Dior 8,23,23

cocktail rings 44,44,57,82,134

collaborations,designer 12,43,76,77,158

collecting objects 74,74,75

collection,designing a balanced 100–1,100–1

collections management 123

communications 140–5

competitions 120,153,155

computer-aided design (CAD) 28,29,88,92–7,92,96,97

software packages 95

computer-aided design (CAD)

designers 111

computer-aided manufacturing(CAM) 94,94

contemporary designers 154–5,154

corporate projects 103,158,159

costings 117

costume jewellery see fashion jewellery courses 152

creative directors 109

Crown Jeweller 17,56

cufflinks 45,45,115,122

Cullen,Jacqueline 16

customer research 72–5,81

project 58–9

CV/résumé 166

Darkling,Violet 45,167

de Castellane,Victoire 40,40,150

de Costa,Ana 15,89

de Lotz,Jessica 74,111,139

design consultancy 158–9,158

design creation 82–105

design development 106–27

design drawings 88,88–9

design platforms 143

design realization 126–7,126–7

designer’s brief 84–5,85

designing a balanced collection 100–1,100–1

designing from research 86–91,86–91

development team 108–11

diamond glove 78–9

Diamond International Necklace 120

diamonds

conflict 48,50,50

ethical 54

Kimberley Process 50

rough 50

digital presentations 130,133

divorce jewellery 26,27

Donocik,Tomasz 28,28

Dunhill 122,122,136

e-tailing 130,143,144,144

editing a collection 100–1

Egan-Fowler,Lauren 68,69

Erickson Beamon 85,160–1,160–1

ethical practice 48–51,48,49,50,51,54,89,170

case study 52–3,52

Fabergé,Peter Carl 16

Fairtrade and Fairmined certified gold 48,50,51,51,54

fantasy and jewellery 14,14–15

fashion influences 26,28,43

fashion jewellery 42–5,42–5

in 1930s 22,22

in 1940s–50s 23,23

in 1960s–70s 24,24–5

in 1980s 26,26

materials 22,23,24

Fennell,Theo 15,23,112–13,112–13,121

fine jewellery 36,40–1,40–1,63

brands 28,41

heritage and contemporary design 30,56–7,62

found objects 74,74,75

future of jewellery 29,29

Galliano,John 8,10

Galton,Elizabeth 106,119,131,134

Ganne,Gisèle 16,26,27

Garrard 17,54,56

Gillies,Maeve 102–3,102–3

glossary 168

gold

dirty 49

fairtrade and fairmined certified 48,50,51,51,54

Kuna panning for 53

rose 121

white 119

yellow 119

Goldsmiths’Company 143,152

Goldsmiths’Craft &Design Council 155

graduate shows 143

guilds and associations 143,170

hallmarking 114,115,115

haute couture jewellery houses 36

head of design 111

case study 98–9,98,99

Hepburn,Audrey 23

Herriot,Sarah 29,96(https://www.daowen.com)

Hillier,Katie 46,46

historical and cultural influences 8,10,12,12,28,28,53,53,68,154

history of jewellery 8–33,44–5

Ho,Sarah 86,88

Holition 29

independent designers 37,154–5

inspiration,sources of 62–5

for de Castellane 40,40

for Donocik 28,28

for Fennell 113

historical and cultural 8,10,12,12,28,28,53,53,68,154

modes of research 63

mystical 14

from mythology 32

for Small 52,53

street culture 33,71

for Tamura 154

trade fairs 64–5,64

for Webster 55

insurance 141

International Talent Support (ITS)155

internships 152,153

JAPONISME 18

job applications 133,166

Katrantzou,Mary 42,162–3

Kayan tribe 12,12

Kazuro-Guionnet,Anne 30–1,30–1

KickStart Programme 155

Kimberley Process 50

Knox,Archibald 20,21

Kuna people 52,53

Lalique 30–1,30–1,89,90–1,118

Lalique,René 18,18–19,30,31,55

Leane,Shaun 12,12,34,62,63

interview 76–9,76–9

Leersum,Emmy van 24,24

lifestyle 155

Links of London 98,122,123,157

loaning jewellery to press 141

logos 115,136

lookbooks 130,131,134

project 148,149

Maasai 10,11

Mackinnon,Jess 82,152

MaeVona 102–3,102–3

magazines 71,125,134,147,148

maker’s mark 115

Mallet,Nathalie 123

marketing 128–49

materials 12,12,15

in 1960s and 1970s 24

in bridal design 103

ethically produced 48

for fashion jewellery 22,23,24

key 119,121

sourcing 64,68,114–15

use of new 29

used by Lalique 18

Whitby jet 16,17

McQueen,Alexander 143,164–5

Leane’s collaboration with 12,76,77

Mercian,Manik 60,158,164

model makers/prototype makers 111,118

moodboards 69,73,73,74,98,98

project 80–1,80

mourning jewellery 16,17

music influences 26,26,55

networking 153,161

New Designers Award 155

New Generation (NEWGEN) 155

new techniques 28,28

online shopping 130,143,144,144,171

3D augmented reality (AR) 29

origins of jewellery 10–15,10

outsourcing 111

‘pack shot’images 130,134

packaging 138,139

Peretti,Elsa 24,25

photographing designs 130,134–5,134–5

editorial and campaign shots 108,135,148

Piechocka,Kasia 124–5,124–5,126,127

planning and recording work 104,104

portfolios 132–3

presentation of 166

price lists 148

pricing designs 116–17

Prince’s Trust,The 155

product developers 111,122,122

profit margins 117

project management 101

public relations

agencies 140–1,154

consultant case study 146–7

Pugnet,Dorothée 73,98–9,98

punk movement 26

qualifications 152

range plans 100,104,116

rapid prototyping 94,94

research

customer 58–9,72–5,81

depth of 85

designing from 86–91,86–91

modes of 63

practices 70–1,70

project 32–3,32,33

trend 68,69

trend forecasting 66,66