Ⅱ.Famous Mountains and Villages of Pu’er Tea
(Ⅰ)Famous Mountains and Villages of Lincang Tea Area
Lincang area is one of the three major Pu’er tea producing areas in Yunnan Province.Two of the three national-level improved varieties (Mengku big-leaf tea, Menghai big-leaf tea and Fengqing big-leaf tea)in Yunnan Province originate from Lincang.Pu’er tea is mainly produced in Fengqing County, Yunxian County, Shuangjiang County, Linxiang District and other places, among which the famous mountains and villages are Bingdao, Xigui, Snow Mountain, Dongguo, Mangfei, Banuo,Chafang, etc.The main characteristics of tea in Lincang area are: the overall taste of slight bitterness,strong astringency, high irritation, special fragrance, full shape and remarkable honey fragrance.
1.冰岛
冰岛古茶园是云南大叶种茶的发祥地之一。从明成化年引种至今已有500多年,在勐库繁殖形成勐库大叶茶群体种。冰岛村位于临沧市双江县勐库镇最北部,离勐库镇33千米,与临沧市南美乡接壤,海拔1400~2500米,年平均气温18~20℃,年降水量1800毫米,由5个寨子(冰岛、地界、南迫、糯伍、坝歪)组成并统称为冰岛村。冰岛、地界、南迫在西半山,糯伍、坝歪在东半山。当地方圆几十千米,茶叶品质既有共同点也有差异。东半山茶香气高昂显毫,但茶气相对弱,西半山正相反,香气弱但茶气十足。冰岛村就恰恰位于中部的勐库河畔,所产茶兼具东半山和西半山的特色,可谓集勐库茶区优秀品质于一身。
冰岛茶品质特征为:茶气强而有力,气足韵长;茶香高、味扬、口感丰富饱满,甘甜质厚;喉咙部位有凉感,慢慢的转化为舌头中后部双呷生津,茶汤糖香,浓度饱满,杯盖杯底高香,冷杯后有冰糖香。
2.昔归
昔归位于云南省临沧市临翔区邦东乡境内的昔归村忙麓山,忙麓山是临沧大雪山向东延伸靠近澜沧江的一部分。国土面积3.82平方千米,海拔750米,年平均气温21℃,年降水量1200毫米。当地土壤为澜沧江沿岸典型的赤红土壤,森林植被为亚热带季雨林。昔归古茶园多分布在半山一带,混生于森林中,古树茶树龄约200年,较大的茶树基围在60~110厘米。清末民初《缅宁县志》记载:“种茶人户全县约六七千户,邦东乡则蛮鹿、锡规尤特著,蛮鹿茶色味之佳,超过其他产茶区”。这里说的蛮鹿,现称为忙麓,锡规现称为昔归。昔归茶属于邦东大叶种,条索较长,色泽墨绿,汤色黄、明亮清澈、香高气扬、滋味微涩甘甜,入口醇和滋润、回甘持久,喉韵蜜(花)香鲜爽、茶气醇厚,杯底留香持久。
1.Bingdao
Bingdao ancient tea garden is one of the birthplaces of big-leaf tea variety in Yunnan.It has been more than 500 years since it was introduced in the period of Emperor Chenghua of the Ming Dynasty.It has been propagated in Mengku and formed a big-leaf tea variety in Mengku.Bingdao Village is located in the northernmost part of Mengku Town, Shuangjiang County, Lincang City.It is 33 km away from Mengku Town, bordering Nanmei Township, Lincang City, with an altitude of 1,400-2,500 m, an annual average temperature of 18-20°C and an annual precipitation of 1,800.00 mm.It consists of five stockaded villages (Bingdao, Dijie, Nanpo, Nuowu and Bawai),which are collectively called Bingdao Village.Bingdao, Dijie and Nanpo are in the western half of the mountain, while Nuowu and Bawai are in the eastern half of the mountain.There are some similarities and differences in the quality of tea in areas tens of kilometers.The tea of the eastern half of the mountain has full aroma but weak tea flavor; while on the contrary, the tea of the western half of the mountain has weak aroma but strong tea flavor.Bingdao Village is located on the bank of the Mengku River in the middle of the area.The tea produced there is characterized by features of both the eastern half and the western half of the mountain.It is regarded as a collection of excellent quality in Mengku tea area.
The tea of Bingdao is featured with strong and powerful tea atmosphere, long lingering charm; high tea aroma and good flavor, rich taste, sweet and high quality; There is a cold feeling in the throat at the beginning.Then saliva appears in the middle and back of the tongue.The tea soup is sweet and full, and the cover and bottom of the tea cup are fragrant.There is a sweet smell of rock candy after cooling.
2.Xigui
Xigui is located in Manglu Mountain, Xigui Village in Bangdong Township, Linxiang District, Lincang City, Yunnan Province.Manglu Mountain is a part of the Lincang Snow Mountain that extends eastward near the Lancang River.It has an area of 3.82 square kilometers,an altitude of 750 meters, an annual average temperature of 21°C, and an annual precipitation of 1,200 mm.The local soil is typical latosolic red soil along the Lancang River.The vegetation is subtropical monsoon forest.Xigui ancient tea gardens are mostly distributed in halfway up the mountain and are mixed with the forest.The ancient tea trees are about 200 years old.The base circumference of large tea trees is 60-110 cm.The Annals of Mianning County at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, recorded,“There are about 6,000 or 7,000 tea planting households in the county, especially in Manlu and Xigui (锡规)of Bondong Township.The tea of Manlu is excellent in terms of color and taste.It surpasses other tea-producing areas”.The Manlu here is now called Manglu, and the Xigui (锡规)is now called Xigui (昔归).Xigui tea belongs to the Bangdong big-leaf variety, which has long twisted strip, dark green color, bright yellow and clear soup and thick fragrance.It is slightly astringent and sweet.It is mild, mellow and moist when drinking.Its sweet can even be felt after a long time as if there is fresh honey (flower)aroma from the throat.The thick tea fragrance can last long at the cup bottom.
(二)西双版纳茶区名山名寨
西双版纳茶区位于云南省西南部,是云南面积排名全省第三的普洱茶产区,也是普洱茶生产历史最悠久、产量最高的区域之一。自唐古拉山北麓流淌而下的河流汇聚于此,形成自北向南将西双版纳一分为二的河流——澜沧江,也分隔出了江内江外十二座茶山。江内六大茶山:易武、倚邦、攸乐、莽枝、蛮砖、革登;江外六大茶山:南糯、南峤、勐宋、景迈、布朗、巴达。云南盛产普洱茶,但地域不同,制成的普洱茶本身也具备鲜明的地域特征。西双版纳茶区的茶特点为茶质厚重,汤质较饱满,苦涩明显,境内的老班章、刮风寨、老曼峨、麻黑、曼松等名寨所产茶叶又各有各的特色。
1.易武
易武(古曼撒),傣语意为“美女蛇居住之地”。易武古茶山,位于云南省西双版纳勐腊县易武镇,东接老挝,南、西、北三面则与瑶区、勐仑、象明和曼腊毗邻,即古六大茶山的东部片区。距勐腊110千米。年平均气温17.2℃,年平均降水1500~1900毫米。包括易武正山、曼撒茶山、曼腊茶山等,曼撒在易武之北,同归易武茶区。
易武早在千年之前就有古濮人种植茶树,明末清初之后,随着六大茶山声名鹊起,大量外地人迁入经营茶叶生意。早期曼撒地区茶叶生产贸易量很大,后来由于种种原因,转至易武。在古六大茶山中面积最大、产量最大。清朝后期以来一直是普洱茶的重要产区。目前易武茶区保留有少量没有矮化的分散古树和大量矮化的古树茶园。
易武茶山茶园众多,最为人熟知的有七村八寨,七村分别是:麻黑村、高山村、落水洞村、曼秀村、三合社村、易比村、张家湾村;八寨分别是:刮风寨、丁家寨(瑶族)、丁家寨(汉族)、旧庙寨、倮德寨、大寨、曼洒寨、新寨,最东边是邻近老挝边境的刮风寨。易武茶具有条索黑亮,芽叶较长,汤色金黄,香气高扬,苦涩较轻,回甘好的特点。
2.布朗山
布朗茶山位于滇南勐海县中缅边境最为地广人稀的边境民族乡——布朗山乡。布朗山乡是我国唯一的布朗族民族乡,也是最古老的古茶区之一。布朗族是百濮的后裔,他们世世代代生活在布朗山,是世界上最早栽培、制作和饮用茶叶的民族。布朗族迁徙到布朗山的历史和植茶史迄今已有近千年。老班章、新班章、老曼峨三个村寨是布朗山老茶树最集中的地方,属班章村委会下辖,这三个村寨老茶树数量占全乡老茶树的90%以上。
(Ⅱ)Famous Mountains and Villages of Xishuangbanna Tea Area
Xishuangbanna Tea Area, located in the southwest of Yunnan Province, is the largest Pu’er tea producing area in Yunnan Province, and it is also one of the regions with the longest tea production history and the highest output of Pu’er tea.Rivers flowing down from the northern foot of Tanggula Mountains converge here, forming the Lancang River, which divides Xishuangbanna in two parts from north to south, and also separates twelve tea mountains outside and inside the river basin.Six major tea mountains inside the river basin: Yiwu, Yibang, Youle, Mangzhi, Manzhuan and Gedeng;six major tea mountains outside the river basin: Nannuo, Nanqiao, Mengsong, Jingmai, Bulang and Bada.Yunnan is rich in Pu’er tea.However, the Pu’er tea in different regions has distinctive regional characteristics.The tea in Xishuangbanna tea area is characterized by thick tea quality, rich soup quality and obvious bitterness.The tea produced by famous villages in the area, such as Old Banzhang, Guafengzhai, Old Man’e, Mahei and Mansong, has its own characteristics.
1.Yiwu
Yiwu (Ancient Mansha), means“the place where beautiful snake lives”in Dai language.Yiwu ancient tea mountain, located in Yiwu Township, Mengla County, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan Province, is bordered by Laos in the east, Yaoqu, Menglun, Xiangming and Manla in the south and northwest, that is, the eastern area of the six ancient tea mountains.It is 110 kilometers from Mengla.It has an annual average temperature of 17.2°C, and an annual mean precipitation of 1,500-1,900 mm.It includes Yiwu Main Mountain, Mansa Tea Mountain, Manla Tea Mountain, etc.Mansa is located at the north of Yiwu and belongs to Yiwu Tea Area.
As early as a thousand years ago, ancient Pu people planted tea trees in Yiwu.After the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, with the fame of the six major tea mountains, a large number of outsiders moved here to operate tea business.In the early stage, the trade and output of tea in Mansa area was very large, and then it was transferred to Yiwu for various reasons.It has the largest area and the largest output among the six ancient tea mountains.It has been an important producing area of Pu’er tea since the late Qing Dynasty.At present, there are a few scattered ancient trees without dwarfing and a large number of dwarfed ancient tea trees in Yiwu Tea Area.
There are many tea mountains and gardens in Yiwu, of which, the seven villages and eight stockaded villages are famous.The seven villages are Mahei, Gaoshan, Luoshuidong, Manxiu,Sanheshe, Yibi and Zhangjiawan.The eight stockaded villages are: Guafeng, Dingjia (Yao),Dingjia (Han), Jiumiao, Luode, Dazhai, Mansa and Xinzhai.The easternmost village is Guafeng Stockaded Village near the border of Laos.Yiwu tea is featured with black twisted strip, long bud leaf, golden soup, high aroma, mild bitterness and good sweetness.
2.Bulang Mountain
Bulang Tea Mountain is located in Bulangshan Township, the most sparsely populated border ethnic township in Menghai County, southern Yunnan.Bulangshan Township is the only Bulang ethnic township in China, and it is also one of the oldest ancient tea areas.Bulang people are descendants of Baipu, who have lived in Bulang Mountain for generations.They are the first people in the world to plant tea trees, make and drink tea.It has been nearly a thousand years since Bulang people migrated to the Bulang Mountain and planted tea trees.The three villages---Old Banzhang, New Banzhang and Old Man’e are the most concentrated places of old tea trees in Bulang Mountain, which are under the jurisdiction of Banzhang Village Committee.The number of old tea trees in these three villages accounts for more than 90% of the old tea trees in the township.
班章系位于布朗山的古树茶区,有新、老班章茶区之分。全村117户,海拔1700~1900米,年平均气温18.7℃,年均日照2088小时,年均降雨量1341~1540毫米,雾多是布朗山的特点,平均每年雾日107.5~160.2天。班章茶的特点为:有强烈的山野气韵,有很突显的古树茶特有之香,香型在兰花香与花蜜香之间,香气持久;条索粗壮且长,芽头肥壮且多茸毛,茶汤滋味浓厚饱满,初入口苦涩,但转化很快,回甘持久明显。
老曼峨地处布朗山的中心地带,海拔略低于老班章,常年高温湿润,是整个布朗山最大、最古老的布朗族村寨。老曼峨为乔木大叶种,汤色剔透明亮,香高,味重,入口苦味重,回甘生津好。
3.攸乐
攸乐茶山现称基诺山,位于西双版纳傣族自治州景洪市基诺乡,为古六大茶山中现存最大的古茶树茶区,海拔575~1691米,地处北热带、南亚热带气候的山区,年平均温度18~20℃。当地气候条件优越,生物资源、土地资源丰富。当地土壤属砖红壤性的红壤,有机质含量较高,pH值在5.1~5.7之间,土层深厚,土壤肥沃。攸乐古茶园多分布于1200米至1500米之间,面积约3000亩,几百年的古树存留很多。攸乐茶香气纯正,汤色黄绿明亮,滋味苦涩但回甘快。
(三)普洱茶区名山名寨
普洱市是云南面积最大的地级市,管辖九县一区,因为面积较大,纵跨北回归线,其古树茶也呈现多样化的特色。南部江城等地的茶山和西双版纳东部茶区的茶质十分接近,柔和内敛。西部澜沧等地的茶则香气凸显,回味悠长,有着很好的市场竞争力。北部景东、镇沅等地的茶口感香醇,茶气充盈。景谷茶区历史悠久,不乏颇具规模的古茶山,也代表了未来市场的方向。
Banzhang is located in the ancient tea tree area of Bulang Mountain, and there are new and old Banzhang tea areas.There are 117 households in the village, with an altitude of 1,700-1,900 meters, an annual average temperature of 18.7°C, an annual average sunshine of 2,088 hours and an annual mean precipitation of 1,341-1,540 mm.Bulang Mountain is featured with fog, with an annual average fog period of 107.5-160.2 days.Banzhang Tea is featured with: a strong wild charm,prominent unique fragrance of ancient tree tea in tea and tea cake, fragrance between orchid and nectar, lasting fragrance; large and long twisted strip, fat and hairy bud head, thick and full soup taste, the initial bitterness but rapid transformation, lasting and obvious sweetness.
Old Man’e is located in the center of Bulang Mountain, slightly below the altitude of Old Banzhang, with high temperature and humidity all the year round.It is the largest and oldest Bulang village on the whole Bulang Mountain.The tea trees of Old Man’e belongs to big-leaf tree variety, which has clear and bright soup color, high tea aroma, heavy taste, initial bitterness but sweetness and saliva secretion after drinking.
3.Youle
Youle Tea Mountain, now called Jinuo Mountain, is located in Jinuo Township, Jinghong City, Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture.It is the largest existing ancient tea tree area among the six ancient tea mountains, with an altitude of 575-1,691 m.It is located in a mountainous area of north tropical zone and south subtropical zone, with an average annual temperature of 18-20°C.The local has superior climate conditions, rich biological resources and abundant land resources.The local soil belongs to lateritic red soil red soil with high organic matter content, pH value between 5.1 and 5.7.The soil layer is deep and the soil is fertile.Youle ancient tea gardens are mostly distributed from 1,200 meters to 1,500 meters, covering an area of about 3,000 mu.There are many ancient trees that have survived for hundreds of years.Youle tea has pure aroma, bright yellow-green soup, initial bitterness but quick turning to sweetness.
(Ⅲ)Famous Mountains and Villages of Pu’er Tea Area
Pu’er City is the largest prefecture-level city in Yunnan, which has the jurisdiction over nine counties and one district.Because of its large area and spanning of the Tropic of Cancer, its ancient tea trees present diversified characteristics.The tea quality of tea mountains in southern Jiangcheng and other places is very close to that of tea areas in eastern Xishuangbanna, which is soft and restrained.Tea in Lancang and other places in the west has a prominent aroma, a long aftertaste and a high market competitiveness.Tea in Jingdong, Zhenyuan and other places in the north tastes pure and full of tea flavor.Jinggu Tea Area has a long history.Its tea has both good aroma and taste.There are many ancient tea mountains with considerable scale, which also represents the future market direction.
1.苦竹山
苦竹山位于景谷傣族彝族自治县,地处东经100°02'~101°07'、北纬22°49'~23°52' 之间,当地海拔2200米,属于南亚热带气候,年降水量1250毫米,森林覆盖率达74.7%,为全国森林覆盖率的5倍多,土壤主要为赤红壤。当地保存着大约1500亩的栽培型古树茶园,有着悠久的制茶产茶历史。苦竹山茶条索紧实,香气高扬,汤色黄绿明亮,滋味甜醇回甘。
2.景迈
景迈千年万亩古茶园分布在澜沧县境内的惠民乡景迈村辖区范围内,座落在其中的村寨有糯岗、景迈、勐本、芒埂、上芒景、下芒洪、翁洼、翁基、老酒房等9个自然村。茶园面积16173亩,整个地形西北高、东南低,最高海拔1662米,最低海拔1100米,属亚热带山地季风气候,干湿季节分明,年平均气温18℃,年降雨量1800mm,古茶园土壤属于赤红壤。景迈茶品质特点:茶汤黄亮;花香浓郁高扬持久,尤以兰香显著,山野之气强烈,兰花香是景迈独有的香;甜味明显而持久,苦涩显,汤质醇滑,上颚中后段的清甜略带花蜜香为其特色,舌面中段甘韵表现佳,喉韵蜜香甘润。
3.困鹿山
困鹿山,傣语中“困”为凹地,“鹿”为雀、鸟,意为雀鸟多的山凹。困鹿山是无量山的一支余脉,隶属于云南省普洱市宁洱哈尼族彝族自治县宁洱镇宽宏村委会困卢山自然村,海拔1410~2271米。皇家古茶园在最高海拔2271米、总面积10122亩的困鹿山原始森林地域内,有千年以上的野生型、过渡型、栽培型和大叶种、中叶种、小叶种古茶树,树龄久远,种类齐全,是云南省距离省会昆明最近、交通最便利、古茶树最密集、种类最丰富、周围植被最好的古茶园。在海拔1900米的困鹿山寨旁,有400余年的栽培型古茶树400多棵。困鹿山为大、中、小叶种相混而生,香型独特,入口微苦回甘。
4.凤凰窝
凤凰窝古树茶坐落于101°29'、北纬23°29'处,海拔1618~1783米,年平均气温为18℃,年降雨量达1300毫米,属于亚热带气候。凤凰窝古树茶园现有面积66亩,实有茶树20196株。凤凰窝古树茶始种于1860年,其品种单一,凤凰窝古树茶品质特点表现为鲜叶外观布有白色绒毛,汤色金黄稠绵,滋味醇厚滑润,香味馥郁高扬持久,叶底黄绿软亮。
1.Kuzhu Mountain
Kuzhu Mountain is located in Jinggu Dai and Yi Autonomous County, between east longitude 100°02’-101°07’E and 22°49’-23°52’N.The local altitude is 2,200 m, which belongs to the south subtropical climate.Its annual precipitation is 1,250 mm.Its forest coverage rate is 74.7%, which is more than five times that of the whole country.The soil is mainly latosolic red soil.There are about 1,500 acres of cultivated ancient tea gardens in the area, which have a long history of tea production.Tea of Kuzhu Mountain has tight twisted strip, high aroma, bright yellow-green soup, initial and long lasting sweetness.
2.Jingmai
Ten thousand mu of thousand-year ancient tea garden is distributed in the jurisdiction of Jingmai Village, Huimin Township, Lancang County.There are nine natural villages, including Nuogang, Jingmai, Mengben, Manggeng, Shangmangjing, Xiamanghong, Wengwa, Wengji and Laojiufang.The tea garden covers an area of 16,173 mu.The whole terrain is high in the northwest and low in the southeast, with the highest altitude of 1,662 meters and the lowest altitude of 1,100 meters.It belongs to subtropical mountain monsoon climate, with distinct dry and wet seasons, an annual average temperature of 18°C and annual precipitation of 1,800 mm.The soil of the ancient tea garden belongs to latosolic red soil.Tea of Jingmai is featured with: yellow and bright tea soup; strong and lasting flower fragrance, especially orchid fragrance which is unique for Jingmai Tea, strong flavor of wildness; obvious and lasting sweetness, obvious bitterness, the mellow and smooth soup; light sweetness with nectar at the middle and rear part of the upper jaw, sweetness at the middle part of the tongue, and sweet honey aroma at throat.
3.Kunlu (Deer Trapping)Mountain
For Kunlu (Deer Trapping)Mountain, in Dai language,“trapping”means concave land, and“deer”means birds, which means a mountain concave with many birds.Kunlu Mountain is an extension of the Wuliang Mountain.It belongs to Kunlushan Natural Village of Kuanhong Village Committee of Ning’er Town, Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County, Pu’er City, Yunnan Province.Its altitude is 1,410-2,271 meters.The Royal Ancient Tea Garden is located in the virgin forest area of Kunlu Mountain with the highest altitude of 2,271 meters and a total area of 10,122 mu.There are wild, transitional, cultivated, big-leaf, middle-leaf and small-leaf ancient tea trees of more than 1,000 years, with an old age and complete varieties.It is an ancient tea garden which is the closest to Kunming, capital of Yunnan Province, has most convenient transportation, the densest ancient tea trees, the richest kinds of ancient tea trees and the best surrounding vegetation.There are more than 400 cultivated ancient tea trees with a history of more than 400 years beside the Kulushan Village at an altitude of 1,900 meters.Tea trees of Kunlu Mountain are a mixture of large,medium and small leaf varieties, with a unique flavor, a slight bitterness and lasting sweetness.
4.Fenghuangwo
Fenghuangwo Ancient Tea Tree Garden is located at the junction of Saci Formation in Xinhua Village and Banpo Formation in Hande Village, Mojiang County.It is located at 101°29'E and 23°29'N, with an altitude of 1,618-1,783 meters, an average annual temperature of 18°C and an annual rainfall of 1,300 mm.It belongs to subtropical climate.At present, Fenghuangwo Ancient Tea Tree Garden has an area of 66 mu, with 20,196 ancient tea trees.Fenghuangwo ancient tea trees were first planted in 1860.With single variety, Fenghuangwo ancient tea trees are featured with white fluff on fresh leaves, golden, thick soup with mellow and smooth taste, rich and long lasting fragrance, yellowish green, soft and bright leaves.