方塔园
Square Pagoda Park
松江方塔园占地面积约为11.5公顷,位于府城的中心,其所在之处曾建有县衙、城隍庙和兴圣教寺。1978年,松江县政府围绕遗存的古迹规划建设了方塔园,并请同济大学冯纪忠教授主持设计。
方塔园的设计既继承传统的精神,又结合现代建筑特色,与古为新。园内以宋代方塔为中心,将明代照壁、宋代石桥、清代天妃宫等古迹与园林景观和谐融合,通过营造地形的变化,形成主次分明、高低起伏、开阔与封闭的空间组合。规划设计将园内原有“丁”字形河道部分扩大成湖面,湖面南侧布置草坪,可从不同角度望见方塔。园中的建筑、广场、水面、草坪各有性格,但又自然交融成整体。甬道、堑道高低起落,宽窄交错,犹入幽幽深谷。全园道路采用天然石材铺设,并布置方形石凳,与方塔的平面形制相呼应。
1982年,方塔园一期工程完成,1999年在国际建筑师协会第20届大会当代中国建筑艺术展上荣获艺术创作成就奖。直到今天,方塔园仍然为中国现代园林设计的代表之作。
方塔园规划图
Plan of the Square Pagoda Park
Covering about 11.5 hectares, the Square Pagoda Park (Fangta Yuan) is located in the center of Songjiang on a site which used to contain the county yamen, the City God Temple of Songjiang and the Xingshengjiao Temple. In 1978, the government of Songjiang County decided to build a park on the remaining historical sites and invited Professor Feng Jizhong at Tongji University to be the chief designer.
The park combines traditional and modern architectural characteristics, giving new vigor and vitality to ancient buildings. In the park, scenic spots and historical sites mix harmoniously. The landscape design enables the buildings in different dynasties such as the Songjiang Square Pagoda, the screen-wall, the stone bridge, and Tianfei Palace to enhance each other's beauty. The T-shaped junction of the rivers had been widened into a lake with a lawn to its south from which the Square Pagoda can be seen from different angles. The footpaths and lanes are paved with natural gravel, where changing heights, widths and shapes add an aura of mystery. Square stone stools dot the landscape, echoing the layout of the Square Pagoda.
In 1982, the first construction phase of the park was completed. It won a landscape design award in the 20th World Congress of Architects (1999) and remains a representative and influential example for modern Chinese garden design to this day.
参观指南
开放时间:5月1日至9月30日5:30—17:30,10月1日至次年4月30日6:00—17:00。园中多为石块地面,建议着运动鞋前往。
Tips
Hours: 5:30–17:30 from May 1st to September 30th, 6:00–17:00 from October 1st to April 30th. As most of the roads are paved with gravel, it's recommended to go with sneakers.
兴圣教寺塔 俗称方塔,始建于北宋熙宁至元祐年间(1068—1094),1996年,列为全国重点文物保护单位。元代,兴圣教寺被毁,独存此塔。方塔总高42.65米,为九层砖木结构楼阁式,塔身瘦长,出檐深远,造型秀美宜人。
清代松江诗人黄霆曾经在《松江竹枝词》中写道:“近海浮图三十六,怎如方塔最玲珑。”方塔的构件十分精巧,如斗拱、壶门(平座与塔心室之间的门)、门楣等。塔内有木楼梯可以登高至七层,在第三层西边墙壁上,至今保留着两幅宋代佛像壁画。塔檐四角均系有铜铃,名曰“警鸟”,风起铃响,悦耳动听。
Xingshengjiao Temple Pagoda also called the Square Pagoda (Fang Ta), was constructed from 1068—1094. In the Yuan dynasty, all but the tower was destroyed. In 1996, it was listed as a major historical and cultural site protected at the national level. The pagoda is a nine-story, 42.65-meter-tall brick-and-wood structure with a slender appearance and far-reaching eaves.
A poet in the Qing dynasty once asked, “How can numerous pagodas be as exquisite as the Songjiang Square Pagoda?” Much of the Pagoda's intricacy and beauty derive from the complex bracket set and lintel sculptures. Inside the tower, the wooden stairway winds its way to the seventh floor past two Buddha murals from the Song dynasty housed on the west wall of the third floor. The bronze bells, called "alarming bird”, hang in the four corners and send a pleasant sound as the wind blows over them.
砖刻照壁 位于方塔北侧,始建于明洪武三年(1370),原为松江府城隍庙门前的一组照壁,是上海地区现存最古老、最完好的大型砖雕艺术品。
照壁立面分为左、中、右三个部分。左、右两侧白墙镶嵌圆形砖雕,左侧青龙、右侧白虎。中间部分由若干块方砖拼接而成,刻有一只名叫“犭贪 ”的巨型怪兽,独角直竖,眼如铜铃,四脚各踩元宝、如意、珊瑚、玉杯。檐下与斗拱之间刻有篆书“风调雨顺,国泰民安”,照壁底座用须弥座。照壁上还雕有象征吉祥的图案,反映松江地区民俗文化。如莲花旁置一瓶,瓶中插三支戟,寓意“连升三级”;一颗大印章挂在树上,旁边有只猴子,寓意“挂印封侯”;以及“凤衔天书”“八仙过海”“鲤鱼跳龙门”等。
相传历代来松江的官员,到任后首先要拜松江照壁以示为政清廉,故此壁又称为“警示壁”。方塔园壁前有一水池名“古水陆池”,据说原为兴圣教寺放生池的一部分。
The Brick Screen-Wall with Sculpture stands to the north of the Square Pagoda. It was built in front of the City God Temple of Songjiang Prefecture in 1370 (Ming) and is the oldest and best-preserved large-scale brick sculpture in Shanghai.
The screen-wall is composed of three parts. The left and right sides are white walls inlaid with round brick sculptures of the Azure Dragon and White Tiger. The middle part is composed of several square bricks engraved with a giant monster named “Greed”. Between the eave and the bracket rests a set of seal characters with the inscription: “propitious winds and rains, peaceful and prosperous country” . The sculpture is supported by a tall plinth with elaborate, decorated moldings. There are also many auspicious patterns carved on the wall, such as halberds and lotus flower, a seal and a monkey, a phoenix, the Eight Immortals at sea, and a jumping koi, among others.
It is said that the officials of Songjiang always come to worship the screen-wall first, before which they swear honesty and loyalty. From this tradition the structure derives its name—the warning wall. In front of the wall is a water feature which is said to be a part of the original pond within the Xingshengjiao Temple complex.
天妃宫 位于方塔的北侧,是现今上海地区现存唯一的妈祖庙遗迹,始建于清光绪十年(1884),其原址位于苏州河河南路桥附近,于1980年迁建至方塔园。
迁入方塔园的天妃宫楠木殿面积约330平方米,高17米,飞檐歇山顶。大殿庄重肃穆,雕刻精致华丽,突出了中国晚清时期妈祖建筑的特色。上海地区历史上的妈祖庙多遭劫毁,大多未能留存,唯有该天妃宫幸存。方塔园一般在妈祖的生日(农历三月二十三日)和妈祖忌日(农历九月九日)都有祭拜活动。
Tianfei Palace lies to the north of the Square Pagoda. It's the only extant Mazu temple in Shanghai built near the Henan Rd. Bridge over the Suzhou Creek in 1884 (Qing) but relocated to the Square Pagoda Park a century later.
The Nanmu Hall of the new Tianfei Palace measures roughly 330 square meters and with a 17-meter high ceiling. It is especially renowned for its upturned eaves and “hip-and-gable” roof. The main hall is majestic and solemn with exquisite and gorgeous sculptures, depicting many characteristics of Mazu architecture in the late Qing dynasty. All of the Mazu temples in Shanghai were destroyed with the exception of Tianfei Palace. Currently, worship services and activities are held twice a year in the Park: Mazu's birthday (23rd of the third month of the Chinese lunar calendar) and the anniversary of her death (9th of the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar).
何陋轩 为园中茶室,位于方塔园东南角,建于1986年,是冯纪忠先生的代表作品,在中国现代建筑史上享有盛名。
何陋轩临水而建,四面通透,总面积约510平方米。建筑以竹结构为主体,屋顶以稻草为主材,弧形屋脊。建筑周围砖砌弧形白色矮墙,同竹架草盖,与四周竹景融为一体。
何陋轩是继承与发展中国传统建筑的优秀案例,蕴含了设计师建筑人生的无限情怀。建园之时因经费有限,茶室取材于自然,经济实惠,设计构思却巧夺天工。用冯先生自己的话来说,“不论台基,墙段,小至坡道,大至厨房等,各个元件都是独立、完整、各具性格,似乎谦挹自若,互不隶属,逸散偶然,其实有条不紊,紧密扣结,相得益彰的”。
Helou Pavilion is a teahouse built in the southeast corner of the park in 1986. As a representative work by Prof. Feng Jizhong, it remains of enduring significance to the history of modern Chinese architecture.
Built on the waterfront, Helou Pavilion covers roughly 510 square meters. The structure itself is mostly comprised of bamboo while straw is predominately used for the roof with a curved ridge. The white curved wall surrounding the building harmonizes both with the straw roof and surrounding bamboo landscaping.
Helou Pavilion both inherits and develops Chinese traditional architecture while revealing the thoughts and feelings of the designer. Despite budget constraints dictating the use of natural and economical materials, the teahouse boasts a magnificent design concept. In Prof. Feng's own words, components of the park including the pedestal, walls, ramp, kitchen, etc., seems to be independent and casual but are actually tightly held with each other in an organized way, contributing to a unified design concept with each element held in mutual support of the others.