索引（Index）
Figures in italics refer to captions, figures in
bold refer to case studies
Aalam, Kat and Oz 102, 172
accountants 26, 183
accounts, keeping 34, 35, 37
added value 108, 109
Adidas 50
Adler, Silas 174
advertising 83, 169
agencies, PR 173
Agent Provocateur 163
agents 137-8
versus distributors 138-9
allocators 72
appraisal schemes 75
asos.com 146
Assirati, Simon 158
Audigier, Christian 54, 55
balancing collections 105
banks 179
Bathing Ape, A 162, 189
Belle & Bunty 168-9, 169
Berliner, Jacob Kampp 174
bespoke 9
book-keeping 186-7
Bora Aksu 9
boutiques 10, 102, 145, 172, 188
brand names/identity 43-6, 189
British Fashion Council 128
building societies 179
buildings insurance 60
Burton 15
business angels 180
business cards 135, 162
Business Link for London 180, 187
business plans 180-83
businesses, setting up
preparatory steps 24-6
setting objectives 26-7
as sole trader 23-4, 33-4
see also companies; partnerships
buyers 70, 96, 102, 131, 133, 133, 135
attracting 101, 102
buying behaviour 155-6
calendars
designer trading 17
fast fashion 17
production 127
show 10
wholesale sales 132
call-ins 171-2
care labels 162
Carvalho, Gil 76-7, 83, 121, 121
cash flow 186, 188, 190
cash on delivery (COD) 142
Castle, Nin 13
catwalk shows 165, 165-7
sponsorship/collaborations 167-9
celebrities, dressing 54, 95, 172
Centre For Fashion Enterprise’s (CFE) Venture
Programme 128
chain stores 145
Chanel 139
Charles, Caroline 104, 177, 192-3
Chloé 10
Choo, Jimmy 43, 44
classics 89, 90
CMT see cut, make, trim
COD (cash on delivery) 142
Collection Première Düsseldorf 98
companies, limited liability 36-7
competitors, analysing 80-81, 83, 85, 101
consignment deals 142
consistency, importance of 104, 104
consumer shows 150
contents insurance 60
cost and freight (CFR/C&F) 126
costing products 183-5, 191
cottage industry manufacturing 113, 114
Crabb, Suzanna 116-17
credit 188, 189
credit cards 143
credit insurance 189
Crews, Malcolm 52, 155
customers 102
impact diagram 109
profiling/targeting 25, 79-80, 83, 101
see also buying behaviour
cut, make, trim (CMT) 113, 114
cutting patterns 57, 70, 117
cycles, fashion 89, 90, 92
Damsel (London boutique) 102, 172
delivery of goods 122, 125, 141
common terms 126
split delivery 190
department stores 96, 145, 145, 151, 188
deposits 142, 188
design development 69-70
designers 69
developing collections 104-5
Diesel 43, 54
Diffusion Media 163, 164
direction (design element) 101
discount stores 145
distributors 84, 137-8
versus agents 138-9
domain names 43, 47
eco fashion 11
e-commerce 146-9
Ei8ht 11
Elle 81, 83
employees see staff
Estethica (exhibition) 11
Ethical Fashion Forum Innovation Award 128
Exchange of Letters 137, 138
exclusivity 120, 139
exhibitions 133-5, 134, 165
abroad 136
expenses 177
fabric agents 117
fabric fairs 116-17
fabric technologists 71
fabrics 116-17, 120, 122
Facebook 163, 164
factors 188-9
fads 90
fashion leaders and followers 92-4
fashion shoots 159-60
fashionability 108, 109
fast fashion movement 17-18
finance, raising 33, 34, 35, 37, 40, 178-80, 189,190
firing staff 75
Fontaine, Anne 86-7, 107
fonts 51, 52, 53
forecasters, fashion 68
franchises 38
full package manufacturers 113-14, 118
functions (of product) 108, 109
funding see finance, raising
Gap 11, 43, 146
garment techologists 70, 71
Geiger, Kurt 169
Goodone 13
graders/grading patterns 71, 118
grants 180
Gregory, Amelia 163
Gucci 10, 46
Gunawardene, Otara 110
Hamer, Claire 12-13, 123-4
H&M 11, 17
hanger appeal 105, 106
Hardy, David 67, 113
Hardy, Don Ed 54-5
Harrison, Howard 40, see Knomo
Harrods 101, 145
Harvey Nichols 20
haute couture 9
Heads of Agreement 137, 138
health and safety 60
high fashion 94
home, working from 57-60
home shopping TV networks 151
Hops, Alastair 40, see Knomo
house party retailing 151
income projection 26, 178
individuality 102 see also unique selling points
Ingwersen, Peter 20, see Noir
in-house manufacturing 113
innovation 92-4
insurance, home 59-60
internet addresses see domain names
interviewing staff 74
invoices 143, 144, 188
Jacobs, Marc 10, 43
journalists, fashion 73, 96
Karan, Donna 139
Kianfar, Yasmin 30-31
Knomo 36, 40-41, 46, 103, 168, 169
KokoFlow 150
Kramer, Charlotte 75
Kulture 2 Couture (K2C) 168
labels 162, see also swing tickets
landed selling prices 141
Lane Crawford 20
Lauren, Ralph 10, 50, 139
lead times 122
leases, checking 85
letters of credit 143
licensing agreements 139
lighting 58
limited liability companies 36-7
limited liability partnerships 35-6
line sheets 161
little black dress (LBD) 89, 91
locations, retail 84-5
logos, fashion 47, 50, 50-53
London Fashion Week 9, 11, 128
lookbooks 96, 134, 156, 157, 158, 161, 171
Mackay, Caroline 168
McQueen, Alexander 43, 139
made-to-measure 9
Magic trade fair, Las Vegas 131, 135
manufacturers/manufacturing 113-14
and delivery of goods 125, 126
sourcing 12-14
terms and conditions 125
manufacturing options 113-14
margins and markups 184, 185
market research 79
marketing 83, 103-4
marketing managers 72
mass market fashion 11, 94
Mattu, Ravi: interview 28-9
Medhurst, Deborah 64
merchandisers 70
Micam (trade show) 76
minimums 120
Mizani 168, 168
models 166
mood (design element) 101
mortgages 58
motifs 50
motivating staff 74-5
names
of partnerships 39, 46
see also brand names; domain names; trade names
National Insurance contributions 34, 35, 36, 37
net sales 102
NET terms 142
net-a-porter.com 146
networking events 165
no added sugar 64-5
Noir 20-21, 82
objectives, setting 26-7
Odel 110-11
online retailing 47, 146-9, 162 see also social media
On|Off 168
order forms 139, 141, 143
orders, taking 118
Osterlund, Rikard 159-60
outsourcing 113-14
overseas markets 137
see also shipping terms partnerships 28-9, 34-5
agreements 39
limited liability 35-6
names 39, 46
pattern cutters/cutting 70, 71, 117
pattern graders/grading 71, 118
payment terms 142-4
Perry, Fred 50
photography 135, 158-60, 166
PLCs see public limited companies Podium 20
Pose London 177
PR see public relations
pre-collections 131
Premier Vision 117
Première Classe (trade show) 76
pre-payments 142
press, the 96, 170
press books 173 press days 167
press packs 170
press releases 170-71
prêt-à-porter see ready-to-wear
prices/pricing 81, 83, 102, 103, 106, 183-5, 191
private clients 150
private limited companies 36-7
private unlimited companies 36
product areas 15
production calendars 127
production managers 71
production process 70-71, 114-16
production runs, calculating 118, 142
profits and losses 34, 35, 36, 37, 184-5
prospecting 136
public limited companies (PLCs) 36-7
public relations (PR) 83, 84, 103-4, 169
in house versus agencies 173
public relations managers 72
Pure London trade show 78
quality, importance of 103, 122
quality control 71, 119, 119
Raeburn, Christopher 128-9
range planning 105-7
ready-to-wear 10
records, keeping 34, 35, 186-7
Red pages 172
Rescue, Benoit 40, 46, see Knomo
researching 25 see also competitors; customers; stockists;
trends
retail managers 72, 73
retailing 132, 145-6, 150-51
online 47, 146-9, 162
Rogers, Everett: Diffusion of Innovations 92-4
Russell, Nzinga 168
sale or return 142
sales and distribution 72-3
sales assistants 72, 73
sales managers 72
sample machinists 71, 71
sample sales 151
samples 116, 118, 122
Schumacher/Dorothee Schumacher 15, 69,
98-9, 105
seasons/seasonality 17, 96, 97, 132
self-assessment 25
self-employed, registering as 33
sell-through rate 102
selling, art of 136
shipping terms 119, 125, 141
show cards 172, 172
showrooms 137
signatures 104, 105
size ranges 71, 118
Small Business Loan Scheme 40
Smith, Paul 139, 141
social enterprises 38
social media 163-4
sole trader, setting up as 23-4, 33-4
solicitors 26, 33, 38
Soulland 174-5
Spalding, Richard 163, 164
Spears, Britney 54
speciality stores 145
specification drawings/specs 116, 116, 125 staff
firing 75
interviewing 74
motivating 74-5
training 75
Start, Philip/Start Boutique 64
start-up costs 177
stationery 162
stockists, researching 84
storage requirements 58
studio sales 133
studios, working from 61-3
stylists, fashion 72, 73
supply chains 18-19, 19, 67, 126
key job roles 67-73
sustainable fashion 11-13, 123-4
Suzanna 116
swing tickets 162, 162
SWOT analyses 25, 81, 108
tax 34, 35, 36, 37, 188
television home shopping networks 151
templates, making 106-7, 162
Texworld 117
Tide-Frater, Susanne 128
Timberlake, Justin 54
toiles 117, 117
Tokyo street style 89
Topshop 11, 17, 151
trade fairs/shows 76, 81, 81
trade names 43, 46
trading years 17
training staff 75
trends, fashion 89, 92, 96-7
and fast fashion movement 17-18
influences on 94-6
researching 68, 114, 116
trialling products 95
trimmings 113, 116
trunk shows 141
Turner, Niki 169
uniform resource locators (URLs) 47
unique selling points (USPs) 40, 81, 102, 103
Vanderzee, James 146, 147
VAT (Value Added Tax) 188
venture capital firms 180
Vogue 81, 83
Von Dutch 54
Vuitton, Louis 50
Walker, Karen 15, 16, 62, 105, 152-3
Ward, Ally 150
Watson, Clare 102
websites 162, see online retailing
West, Kanye 54
wholesale selling 131-44
line sheets 161
sales window 131-2
workshops, working from 61-3
writers, fashion 73, 96
WSA (trade show) 76
Yoga Show 150, 150
Zara 11, 17, 146
Zlotkin, Ari 86