Ⅱ.Towns and Courier Stations on the Ancient Tea-ho...

Ⅱ.Towns and Courier Stations on the Ancient Tea-horse Road

The towns on the Ancient Tea-horse Road are branded with long-standing historical culture and caravan culture.These ancient towns and courier stations are derivatives or accessories of the Ancient Tea-horse Road, which are indispensable parts of the Ancient Tea-horse Road.The ancient towns and courier stations specially provide service facilities for caravans and pedestrians,so that people who are fatigued can have a short rest, and then embark on a long road again to continuously transport materials and ensure the normal trade.The following are some famous towns on the Ancient Tea-horse Road.

(Ⅰ)Ancient Yiwu Town

Yiwu Town was under the jurisdiction of Pu’er Prefecture in the Qing Dynasty, and was given the title of“Prosperous City”in the Tang Dynasty for producing tea.More than 100 years ago, Yiwu Town was the largest tea-producing center and export base among the six tea mountains in Pu’er Prefecture.Half of tea taxes of Pu’er Prefecture were paid by Yiwu Town.In the middle of the ancient street of Yiwu, there are several famous ancient tea shops built in the Qing Dynasty,such as Tongqing, Tongxing, Cheshun, Fuyuanchang and Songpin, etc., all of which are modeled after Han-style quadrangle courtyard in Shiping, with four ridges not stretching out of walls, and some old houses are painted with murals of the Qing Dynasty on their inner and outer walls, doors and windows.The courtyards inside are in another style.These old houses have wide courtyards and corridors just for the convenience of caravan from afar.These old houses in addition to be used for making, airing and storing Chi Tse tea cakes are also planted with flowers and trees in the courtyards.The courtyards are filled with the fragrance of tea and flowers, which absorbs the history of these old houses from the ancient streets of Yiwu, melts these memories into clear tea,and enchants all tourists and visitors.This is the taste of the town actually rich in tea, and no matter how profound the righteousness and fidgety heart are, they can all drift away with the tea fragrance.

图2-7 古街

图2-8 车顺号茶庄(旧址)

(二)倚邦古镇——倚邦街

六大茶山另一重要的古镇倚邦,在兴旺时期,有繁华的倚邦街,曾经建过至少三个会馆,即石屏会馆、楚雄会馆和四川会馆,石屏会馆建于清雍正年间,后由于火灾,三个会馆至今已不复存在。原挂在大庙门上的一幅大匾被保存下来,匾的中央自右向左刻着斗大的四个大字:“福庇西南”,右上角刻着:“光绪贰年藏丙子李下之吉旦”,左下角刻有“普洱府思茅同知加三级记录十次……”从庙的题词内容可以看出,当时倚邦及周围茶山的茶叶有造福一方的巨大价值和稳定西南边疆的重大意义。另从大庙五、六尺长的横条地基石台和残存的雕花瓦盖,还可看出当时大庙建筑的雄伟气概和汉族文化融入思茅民族区域的积极意义。

Fig.2-6 Ancient Yiwu Town

Fig.2-7 Ancient street

Fig.2-8 Cheshun Shop (site)

图2-9 倚邦古镇

(三)普洱古镇

普洱是座让人向往的茶城,因茶而成为文化荟萃之地。自古至今皆当之无愧地成为了一座茶叶城市和茶销中心,各地商人云集普洱。普洱因茶之故在历史上备受重视,普洱古镇位于今宁洱县。清代,为加强对普洱茶的管理,清朝廷还在普洱设茶局,专办营运茶叶的许可证“茶引”,并收取茶税。清朝廷还在普洱办茶厂选上好原料加工为团茶、散茶和茶膏专门贡献朝廷。清代的普洱府可以说是官办茶业和民间茶业共同繁荣的时期。据《普洱县志》记载,咸丰年间有20几万人从事茶业。道光同治年间,普洱府普宁城内城外有商家三百余。茶庄有六七十家,每年茶的销量为500多吨。普洱茶有普青、普红、普尖等,有的直接运出,有的加工成茶饼或团茶、茶膏运走。普洱有名的商号有协太昌、同心昌、福美祥、元盛号、荣和昌、广兴隆等。

图2-10 普洱古镇及茶马古道(宁洱段)

(Ⅱ)Ancient Yibang Town-Yibang Street

Another important ancient town located in six tea mountains, Yibang, had a prosperous Yibang Street in its boom period.At least three guilds, namely Shiping Guild Hall, Chuxiong Guild Hall and Sichuan Guild Hall, were once built.Shiping Guild Hall was built in Yongzheng Period of the Qing Dynasty.Later, due to a fire, the three guilds no longer existed.A large plaque originally hung on the temple gate was preserved, engraved with four big characters“Bless for Southwest”in the center from right to left,“Lucky Day in Summer of Year of Bingzi, i.e.The 2nd Year of Guangxu Period”in the right upper corner and“Deputy Magistrate of Simao, Pu’er Prefecture was promoted for three levels and awarded ten times”in the left lower corner.From the inscription of the temple, it can be seen that the tea produced from Yibang and the surrounding tea mountains at that time had great value for the benefit of local people and great significance for stabilizing the southwest frontier.In addition, from the horizontal foundation stone platform with a length of five or six chi (unit of length in China)and the remaining carved tiles of the temple, it can also be seen that the majestic spirit of the temple at that time and the positive significance of the integration of Han culture into ethnic area of Simao.

Fig.2-9 Ancient Yibang Town

(Ⅲ)Ancient Pu’er Town

Pu’er is a tea city that people yearn for.Because of tea, Pu’er has become a cultural gathering place.Pu’er fully deserves the title of tea city and tea distribution center at all ages, where all merchants gather for tea trade.Pu’er was highly valued in history because of tea, and the ancient Pu’er Town was located in today’s Ning’er County.In the Qing Dynasty, in order to strengthen the management of Pu’er tea, the Qing government set up a tea administration bureau in Pu’er, which specialized in the license“Tea Permit”of operating tea and collected tea tax.The Qing government also set up tea factories and selected superior raw materials to make rolled tea, loose tea and tea paste, which were special contributions to the imperial court.Pu’er Prefecture in the Qing Dynasty can be said to be in a period of common prosperity of official tea industry and folk tea industry.According to the Annals of Pu’er County, in Xianfeng Period, there were more than 200,000 people engaged in tea industry.In Tongzhi Period under the ruling of Emperor Daoguang, there were over 300 shops inside and outside Puning City, Pu’er Prefecture.There were 60-70 tea factories, with an annual sales volume of more than 500 tons.The tea of Pu’er was classified as Pu’er oolong tea, Pu’er black tea and Pu’er tip, some of which was directly transported outward and the other was processed into tea cake or rolled tea and tea paste and then transported outward.Pu’er also had many famous tea shops, such as Xietaichang,Rongxinchang, Fumeixiang, Yuansheng, Ronghechang, Guangxinglong, etc.

(四)云南驿古镇

云南驿得名始于西汉,汉元封二年(公元前109年),西汉在今云南驿正式设立云南县,元代设云南省,明代云南县治迁到洱海卫城(今祥云城),直到1918年与省、县同名。

至今还遗存的云南驿古镇是由一条长1.70千米、宽3.50米的青石板路街道串起来的村子,整个村子围着这条古道展开。这条石板古道,经过几百年人迹马蹄的打磨显得斑驳且光亮。路旁有保存完好的马店和驿站,它们会让人回想过去商旅不断、马帮塞途的悠悠岁月。透过青石板路上马蹄踏出的深痕,一条条古道:五尺道、蜀身毒道、永昌道、茶马道均在此交汇,而各路马帮在这里歇脚,又从这里踏向漫漫前路。云南驿由于它交通位置的重要,直至民国始终是客商汇聚的繁华驿镇。

明清云南驿的马店约有40多个,客栈20多家,前者可歇马也可歇人,后者只歇人不拴马。钱家马店是从前有名的“大马店”,现改为“马帮文化博物馆”。石板街把钱家马店分成南北两院,南院歇马,北院住人,每晚可歇300多匹马。博物馆设在南院,房子一如从前,三进两层的楼房相通连,狭而深,楼下拴马,楼上堆货。走进去,如同走进了百年前古宅,有晃着的马灯、柱下拴着正在槽中吃着草料的马,排放在地上的马驮子装着普洱茶、锅盐、土产山货的货架,还有几口式样不同的旧皮箱、木箱,由此可以想象与马帮一起上路的客人。

图2-11 云南驿

Fig.2-10 Ancient Pu’er Town and Ancient Tea-horse Road (section in Ning’er)

(Ⅳ)Ancient Yunnan Courier Town

Yunnan Courier Town got its name“Yunnan”in the 2nd year of Yuanfeng Period of the Western Han Dynasty (109 BC).The government of the Western Han Dynasty set up Yunnan County in the place where Yunnan Courier Town is located today.Then, Yunnan Province was established in the Yuan Dynasty.In the Ming Dynasty, Yunnan County was relocated to Eerhaiweicheng (today’s Xiangyun Town).Until 1918, the province and county shared the same name of Yunnan.

The ancient Yunnan Courier Town, which remains today, is a village strung together by a stone road with a length of 1.7 km and a width of 3.5 m.The whole village is spread around this ancient road.This ancient stone road is mottled and bright after hundreds of years of trampling by travelers and horses.There are well-preserved caravansaries and courier stations along the roadside, which will remind people of the long years when business trips continued and caravan arrived in quick succession.Through the deep marks trampled by horseshoes on the stone road, it can be seen that ancient roads:Wuchi Road, Shushendu Road, Yongchang Road and Chama Road all intersect here, where caravans from all directions rest and embark on a long road.Because of its important traffic position, Yunnan Courier Town was always a prosperous place where merchants gathered until the Republican Period.

There were more than 40 caravansaries and more than 20 hotels in Yunnan Courier Town in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.The former was for people and horse to rest, while the latter was only used to rest people without tying horses.Qian’s Caravansary, once a famous“Great Caravansary”,is now called“Caravan Culture Museum”The slab stone street divides Qian’s Caravansary into the north and south courtyards, with horses resting in the south and people living in the north.More than 300 horses can rest every night.The museum is located in the south courtyard.The building is the same as before.The three-storey and two-storey buildings are interconnected, narrow and deep, with horses tied downstairs and goods piled upstairs.Walking in is like walking into an old mansion a hundred years ago.There are swinging lanterns, horses that are eating forage in the trough tied under the column, the shelves of horse packs on the ground containing Pu’er tea, pot and salt, local and mountain products, and several old suitcases and wooden boxes of different styles.It can be imagined that the guests step on a long journey with caravans.

图2-12 茶马古道(云南驿段)

图2-13 云南驿古镇“马帮文化博物馆”陈列的马帮用品

(五)沙溪古镇——寺登街

寺登街是块风水宝地,坐落于云南大理剑川县沙溪坝子中央,地处鳌峰山,取“独占鳌头”之意。有说“寺登街是马帮用马驮出来的”,这话不无道理,数百年来,寺登街作为茶马的陆路码头,既是食盐的始发地,又是茶叶、马匹、药材、皮货等的集散地。它因马帮兴而兴,因马帮衰而衰。

寺登街道上,用条石铺成的街面历经沧桑,马蹄印犹在,四周的裁缝铺、剃头铺、杂货铺和穿着中式长衫操着清末的熨斗或剪刀坐在店里的老人,这一切让人仿佛回到过去。四方街中有两株五六人才能合抱的古槐树,巨伞般的树冠几乎遮蔽了集市的大半,鹤发银须的老人在树下闭目养神。西面是兴教寺,东面是古戏台,两者通相呼应。三重檐式设计的戏台上供奉着魁星老爷,已略显斑驳,静默地立着。戏台对面的兴教寺是目前国内最大、保存最好的白族阿吒力寺院。建于明代的兴教寺是仿效中原的寺院格局,悬山式的五脊顶,多柱多梁,内外墙壁上绘有明代壁画20多幅。而朝里的大殿又是另种风貌,宽宽的转经廊只为方便远道而来的藏族马帮。

Fig.2-11 Yunnan Courier Town

Fig.2-12 Ancient Tea-horse Road (section in Yunnan Courier Town)

Fig.2-13 Caravan articles displayed in“Caravan Culture Museum”of Yunnan Courier Town

(Ⅴ)Ancient Shaxi Town-Sideng Street

Sideng Street is a treasure land with geological advantages, located in the middle of Shaxi Dam in Jianchuan County, Dali, Yunnan.Due to being located in the Aofeng Mountain, it also has the implied meaning of“taking the lead”.It is reasonable to say that“Sideng Street was created by caravans”,because for hundreds of years, Sideng Street, as a land terminal for tea-horse trade, was not only the origin of salt, but also the distribution center of tea, horses, medicinal materials and leather goods.It thrives because of the prosperity of caravan and also declines due to the downfall of caravan.

图2-14 茶马古道(寺登街段)

(六)建塘古镇

建塘古镇位于迪庆藏族自治州香格里拉。香格里拉闻名世界但建塘古镇已被遗忘。古老的建塘是藏族人民的骄傲,他们是这样歌颂自己家乡的:“太阳最早照耀到的地方,是奶子河流过的东方的建塘。”古老而厚重的雪域文化,自古就使建塘成为一个具有浓郁藏族风采的城镇,加上这里地处川、滇、藏三省(区)交通的要道,成为自唐代以来“茶马互市”的主要场所,茶马古道上进出滇藏的商旅马帮均在这里集散,因而使建塘古镇除了具有典型藏文化特色外,更有多元民族文化交融的特点,在历史上曾留下了它辉煌的一页。

图2-15 建塘古镇

On the Sideng Street, the surface paved with boulder strips has gonethrough storm and stress.The existing horseshoe prints, the surrounding tailor shop, barber shop, grocer’s shop and the old men sitting in the shops in Chinese gown with iron or scissors in the style of late Qing Dynasty all make people feel as if they have gone back to the past.In the center of the square street, there is an ancient Chinese scholar tree which can only encircled by five or six people.The canopy of giant umbrella almost covers most of the market, and the old man with white hair and moustache refreshes spirit by closing eyes under the tree.It is Xingjiao Temple in the west and ancient stage in the east, both of which echo each other.The three-eaves-style stage is dedicated to worshiping Master Kuixing, which is slightly mottled and stands silently.Xingjiao Temple, opposite the stage,is the largest and best-preserved Bai’s Acarya Temple in China.Xingjiao Temple built in the Ming Dynasty, is modeled after the temple pattern in the Central Plains.It has a suspended five-ridged roof, many columns and beams, and more than 20 murals of the Ming Dynasty painted on its inner and outer walls.However, the main hall inside is of another style, and the wide circumanbulation corridor is only for the convenience of Xizang caravan coming from afar.

Fig.2-14 Ancient Tea-horse Road (section in Sideng Street)

(Ⅵ)Ancient Jiantang Town

The ancient Jiantang Town is located in Shangri-La of Diqing Xizang Autonomous Prefecture.Shangri-La is famous all over the world, but the ancient Jiantang Town has been forgotten.The ancient Jiantang Town is the pride of the Xizang people.They sing the praises their hometown like this:“The first place where the sun shines is Jiantang in the east where the Naizi Lake flows.”The ancient and heavy snow-covered culture has made Jiantang a town with a strong Xizang style since ancient times.In addition, located at the main traffic artery of Sichuan, Yunnan and Xizang, it has become the main place of“tea-horse trade”since the Tang Dynasty.Business caravans to and from Yunnan and Xizang through the Ancient Tea-horse Road all transfer here,which makes Jiantang ancient town not only have typical Xizang cultural characteristics, but also have the blending characteristics of multi-ethnic cultures, thus leaving a glorious chapter in history.

(七)升平古镇

迪庆藏族自治州的德钦县升平镇,历史上被称为“雪山之城”,它不仅是滇藏“茶马古道”的入藏门户,而且是云南西北与西藏紧密相连的唯一茶马贸易古镇。滇藏“茶马古道",经过今香格里拉的建塘古镇,翻越白茫雪山,到达它在云南境内最后的也是最险峻壮丽的澜沧江边德钦段。今德钦县升平镇,便是当年从云南进入川藏的最后一个古镇。滇藏“茶马古道”从这里离开云南,将进入西藏的昌都、察隅、波密、林芝、拉萨,再进入尼泊尔、不丹、印度、阿富汗等国,并到达欧洲。

图2-16 升平古镇

升平镇地处滇、藏、川三省(区)交界处,历来是滇藏茶马古道的要冲,自唐朝以来就是茶马互市的重要集散地。除开店贸易外,马帮贩运同样是德钦的藏民及回民的又一生计。当地人擅长经商,每年夏秋之际,他们便将在当地收购的虫草贝母、兽皮和药材皮货等土产运往丽江、大理等地出售,又从那里贩回盐巴、茶叶、火柴、布匹等物品在德钦出售,有的人还将驮运买卖扩展到西藏境内。他们常常在一个夏秋贩运两三趟,虽然十分辛苦且危险,但收入却十分可观。以往,几乎每位成年男子都从事过这种马帮贩运。

Fig.2-15 Ancient Jiantang Town

(Ⅶ)Ancient Shengping Town

Shengping Town in Deqin County, Diqing Xizang Autonomous Prefecture, is known as the“Town of Snow Mountains”in history.It is not only the pass to Xizang for the“Ancient Tea-horse Road”between Yunnan and Xizang, but also the only ancient tea-horse trade town in northwest Yunnan closely connected with Xizang.The Yunnan-Xizang“Ancient Tea-horse Road”passes through ancient Jiantang town in Shangri-La today, crosses snowy mountains, and reaches Deqin on the side of the Lancang River, of which this section is the last and most precipitous part in Yunnan.Shengping Town in Deqin County today is the last ancient town passed by from Yunnan to Sichuan and Xizang.From here, the Yunnan-Xizang“Ancient Tea-horse Road”leaves Yunnan and enters Qamdo, Zayü, Bomê, Nyingchi and Lhasa in Xizang, then reaches Nepal, Sikkim,Bhutan, India, Afghanistan and other countries, and finally arrives in Europe.

Shengping Town, located at the junction of Yunnan, Xizang and Sichuan, has always been the hub of the Yunnan-Xizang Ancient Tea-horse Road, and has been an important distribution center for tea-horse trade since the Tang Dynasty.In addition to shops for trade, caravan transportation is also another livelihood of Tibetans and Muslims in Deqin.Local people are good at business deals.Every summer and autumn, they transport the local products such as Chinese caterpillar fungus, fritillaria, hides, medicinal materials and fur products to Lijiang, Dali and other places for sale.Then, they purchase salt, tea, matches, cloth and other articles from above places and transport them back to Deqin for sale.Some people even extend the consignment trade to Xizang.They often make two or three trips every summer and autumn.Although it is very hard and dangerous, their income is considerable.In the past, almost every adult man has been engaged in this caravan transportation.

(八)鲁史古镇

凤庆的鲁史也许是我们在茶马古道上能找到的保存比较完好的古镇了,它不仅是茶马古道上的又一个重要集镇,也是茶叶生产销售的重要集镇。

康熙四年,云南北胜州(今丽江永胜)设茶马市场,凤庆茶大量经丽江流入藏区。从顺宁府(今临沧)到鲁史镇,中间有澜沧江相隔,历史上靠摆渡往返,乾隆年间顺宁知府刘靖督士民建青龙桥,进一步方便了茶马运输,使鲁史更加商号林立,外来的绸缎、棉纱、布匹、盐巴和本地茶叶、核桃、木耳等土特产在此交易集散。内地人到凤庆赶春茶会均从鲁史往返,大理茶商则在这里购茶后运往外地。途经此处的茶马古道有三条:①凤庆鲁史至西藏;②凤庆鲁史至昆明;③凤庆鲁史至镇康耿马、缅甸。自20世纪50年代,从凤庆至下关的茶叶运输还主要靠马帮,要经过8个马站,需8天的时间。当时,来自澜沧江沿岸产茶区的临沧、凤庆的马帮和来自大理、丽江、昆明的马帮,都歇住于鲁史,准备日后路上所需,尤其每年春茶上市,几乎每天都有四五十队上千匹骡马从这里的石阶上走过,这一个个深深的马蹄印是鲁史“三十年河东,三十年河西”的见证。由于商旅、赴任官员、游学文人的到来,潜移默化地影响着鲁史镇人,许多先进的生产、生活方式也被带到了鲁史,形成了文化的大融合。

图2-17 鲁史古镇

图2-18 鲁史古镇茶马古道

Fig.2-16 Ancient Shengping Town

(Ⅷ)Ancient Lushi Town

Lushi in Fengqing may be a well-preserved ancient town that we can find on the Ancient Teahorse Road.It is an important market town not only for trade on the Ancient Tea-horse Road, but also for tea production and sale.

In the 4th year of Kangxi Period, the tea-horse trade market was set up in Beishengzhou (now Yongsheng, Lijiang), Yunnan, so tea from Fengqing was exported to Xizang in large amount via Lijang.From Shunning Prefecture (now Lincang)to Lushi Town, there is the Lancang River in the middle for separation.In history, people traveled to and from both sides by boats.During Qianlong Period, the magistrate of Shunning Prefecture, Liu Jing ordered soldiers and workers to build the Qinglong Bridge,which further facilitated the transportation of tea and horses and made Lushi attract more merchants to open shops.Foreign silks, cotton yarn, cloth, salt and tea, walnuts, fungus and other local products were traded and distributed here.Inland people going to Fengqing for Spring Tea Fair all passed through Lushi,and tea merchants from Dali purchase and transported the tea outward from here.There are three branches of the Ancient Tea-horse Road passing by: (1)From Lushi, Fengqing to Xizang; (2)From Lushi, Fengqing to Kunming; (3)From Lushi, Fengqing to Gengma, Zhenkang and Myanmar.Since 1950s, the tea from Fengqing to Xiaguan was mainly transported by caravans which often passed by 8 courier stations in 8 days.At that time, caravans from Lincang, Fengqing, the tea producing areas along the Lancang River and Dali, Lijiang and Kunming all stayed in Lushi to prepare for materials required for later journey.Especially when spring tea was available for sale on market every year, almost every day, 40 or 50 teams of thousands of mules and horses passed by the stone steps here.These deep horseshoe prints were the witness of Lushi’s“prosperity and decline capricious in rise and fall”.As the inland merchants and travelers, officials on duty, and scholars on study tour arrived, they exerted a subtle influence on people in Lushi Town, and many advanced inland production and lifestyles were brought to Lushi, forming a great cultural integration.