Ⅲ.Tea as Drink
Tea, as a national drink, originated in the Shennong Time, boomed in the Tang Dynasty and flourished in the Song Dynasty.During the long history of tea drinking, all ethnic minorities in China have formed various tea drinking customs.For example, the baked tea of all ethnic minorities in Yunnan is the lifestyle tea art with the most ethnic characteristics in Yunnan.It is a tea drinking method still used by Yunnan folks and often used to entertain guests.Dai, De’ang,Bulang, Wa, Naxi, Hani, and other ethnic minorities still maintain the custom of baking tea.Many ethnic minorities also have the habit of drinking bamboo-tube scented tea, which is named for the fragrance of bamboo tubes.Although the bamboo-tube scented tea of Dai, Wa, Bulang, De’ang,Hani, Jingpo, etc., is slightly different, it is still similar.The three-cup tea of Bai has been the traditional hospitality tea of the Bai people since ancient times.Its making method is exquisite and unique, with a strong national culture and tea ceremony art; The banana-leaf-covered big-leaf tea of Jinuo is the most distinctive way of drinking tea in the local area.Generally, Jinuo people present the banana-leaf-covered big-leaf tea to guests or store it after drying.
图4-13 以茶为饮
（一）烤茶
烤茶是傣族、佤族、纳西族等民族的传统茶俗，烤的茶入口时具有浓厚的茶香和回甘，有些民族认为烤过的茶饮后身体更暖和。除了烤茶这个最常见的名称外，在傣族它一般被称为火罐茶，在布朗族被称为土罐茶，在纳西族被称为煨罐茶，在彝族被称为罐罐茶，在哈尼族被称为土锅茶，在拉祜族被称为火焯茶。虽然名称不同，但他们的制作方法却是相似的，一般是将洗干净的烤茶罐放在火塘上预热，再将茶叶放入预热好的茶罐中，来回不停地翻抖茶叶，当茶叶色泽发黄，并散发出香味时，将烧沸的开水倒入茶罐中，再放入火塘中熬煮几分钟，茶水的清香扑鼻而来，最后把茶汤倒入茶盅就可以畅饮了，还有一种烤茶是将烤罐在火塘上烘烤，然后倒入烧沸的开水，再投入茶叶，熬煮几分钟后倒入茶盅敬奉给客人。
（二）竹筒茶
竹筒茶是云南一些民族别具一格的风味茶，竹筒茶的制作一般是将茶鲜叶塞入竹筒，再置于火上慢慢烤，茶叶被烤干，使茶带有竹香，饮用时，取少许茶叶放入碗中，倒入沸水冲泡几分钟即可饮用。各个民族竹筒茶的制作方法稍有不同，就比如傣族和居住在云南勐海一带的拉祜族的竹筒茶是将春茶放入底部被糯米浸透的小饭甑里，然后用火蒸15分钟，再将吸收了糯米香的茶叶装入准备好的竹筒内，堵住竹筒口，放在离炭火40厘米的三脚架上，文火慢烤，约5分钟翻动一次，待竹筒变为焦黄，茶叶全部烤干即可。佤族的竹筒茶，有两种制作方法，一种是将鲜叶炒黄到八成干后装入竹筒内，封紧筒口，随用随取；还有一种是将新鲜茶叶放进竹筒，置于火上烤，烤好后注入开水再煮2～3分钟即可，德昂族和拉祜族制作竹筒茶的传统方法跟佤族竹筒茶的第二种制作方法一样。布朗族制作的竹筒茶与一般竹筒茶的区别是他们在茶碗中倒入烤好的竹筒茶后会加一些蜂蜜，再用开水冲泡。哈尼族冲泡式的竹筒茶一般不在家中烧煮，而是在野外劳动时经常饮用的一道茶，先砍一截竹，洗去竹内白沫，装入清水，放入适量茶叶，然后放在火上烧煮，待水沸后竹筒茶就制作完成了。景颇族竹筒茶的制作方法是先将采摘的新鲜茶叶晒致其失去二三成水分，用手搓揉或用锅蒸煮，使茶叶变软，然后摊放在簸箕上搓揉，再将茶叶倒入竹筒装满后用竹叶塞紧竹筒口，2天后用灰泥封糊筒口，将茶筒插入土中，放置2～3个月，待茶叶发出特有的茶叶浓香时，即可劈开竹筒，晒干即可饮用。
Fig.4-13 Take tea as a drink
(I)Baked Tea
Baking tea is a traditional tea custom of Dai, Wa, Naxi, and other ethnic minorities.Baked tea has a strong fragrance and sweetness for drinking.Some ethnic minorities think that the body will become warmer after people drink the baked tea.In addition to the most common name of baked tea, it is generally called fire-baking pot tea by Dai people, clay-pot tea by Bulang people, stewing pot tea by Naxi people, boiling pot tea by Yi people, earth-pot boiling tea by Hani people and fireboiling tea by Lahu people.Although the names are different, the making methods are similar.Generally, preheat the cleaned tea baking pot above the fire pit, and then put the tea leaves into the preheated pot and keep stirring them.When the tea leaves turn yellow and give off fragrance,pour boiling water into the teapot, then cook for several few minutes above the fire pit.When the fragrance of the tea comes to the nose, it is time to pour the tea soup into the cup for drinking.There is another method of baking tea: heat the baking pot above the fire pit and pour boiling water into the pot, and add tea.After boiling for several minutes, present the cup filled with tea to the guests.
(II)Bamboo-tube Scented Tea
Bamboo-tube scented tea is the unique flavored tea of some ethnic minorities in Yunnan.Generally, the making method of bamboo-tube scented tea is as follows: Stuff fresh tea leaves into a bamboo tube, and then roast it slowly on a fire.After drying, the tea has a bamboo fragrance.When drinking, take and put a few tea leaves into a bowl and then pour boiling water and brew the tea for several minutes before drinking.The making methods of bamboo-tube scented tea of various ethnic minorities are slightly different.For example, Dai and Lahu people living in Menghai, Yunnan make bamboo-tube scented tea in the following method: put the spring tea in a small rice bowl with glutinous rice at the bottom, then steam it with fire for 15 minutes, then put the tea with glutinous rice fragrance into the prepared bamboo tube, plug the opening of the bamboo tube, put it on a tripod 40 cm away from the charcoal fire, and bake it slowly, turning it over every 5 minutes, until the bamboo tube turns brown and all the tea leaves are dried.Wa people have two methods of making bamboo-tube scented tea.One is to fry fresh tea leaves until they are 80% dry,then put them in a bamboo tube, seal the tube tightly, and take tea as needed; Another method is to put fresh tea leaves in a bamboo tube, bake it on the fire, and then add boiling water to make it for 2～3 minutes.The traditional making method of bamboo-tube scented tea of De’ang and Lahu is the same as the second making method of Wa.The difference between the bamboo-tube scented tea made by Bulang and ordinary ones is that Bulang people pour baked bamboo-tube scented tea into a bowl, add some honey, and then brew it with boiling water.Generally, the bamboo-tube scented tea brewed by Hani people is not boiled at home, but it is a kind of tea that is often drunk by people working in the field.First, cut a piece of bamboo, wash off the white foam in the bamboo, fill it with clear water, add a proper amount of tea, and then boil it on the fire.After the water boils,the bamboo-tube scented tea is available for drinking.Jingpo’s making method of bamboo-tube scented tea is to first dry the picked fresh tea leaves in the sun until they lose 20% to 30% of water,rub them by hands or cook them in a pot for softening, spread them on a dustpan for rubbing gain,then pour the tea leaves into the bamboo tube and plug it with bamboo leaves.Two days later, paste the tube opening with plaster, insert the tea tube into the soil, and leave it for 2-3 months.When the tea leaves give off a unique fragrance, split and dry the bamboo tube.
图4-14 傣族竹筒茶
（三）白族三道茶
三道茶自古以来就是白族人民传统的待客茶饮。
第一道茶称为苦茶。制作时，先将水烧开，再将一只小砂罐置于文火上预热，等到小砂罐烤热后，取3克左右的茶叶放入罐内，并不停地转动砂罐，反复数十次，待茶叶发出响声、叶色转黄、散发出焦糖香时，立即注入已经烧沸的开水，再煮1分钟左右，第一道茶就做好了。
第二道茶称为甜茶。当客人在喝第一道茶时，主人重新用小砂罐置茶、烤茶、煮茶，方法与第一道茶相同，与此同时，在茶盅里放入少许切细的核桃仁、红糖屑、乳扇，将煮好的茶汤倒入茶盅内，第二道茶就做好了。
第三道茶称为回味茶。其置茶、烤茶、煮茶方法也与第一道茶相同。另取一只陶罐，罐内放入三五粒花椒、生姜、适量的桂皮，加水熬煮，然后将烤煮好的茶和熬煮好的水倒入茶盅，调入适量蜂蜜，就可饮用回味茶了。
Fig.4-14 Dai’s bamboo-tube scented tea
(III)Bai’s Three-cup Tea
The three-cup tea has been the traditional hospitality tea of the Bai people since ancient times.
The first cup of tea is called bitter tea.In terms of making, first, boil the water, then put a small sand pot on a slow fire for preheating.After the small sand pot is heated, take about 3 g of tea leaves into the pot, and keep rotating the sand pot dozens of times.When the tea leaves make a noise, turn yellow, and give off a caramel fragrance, immediately pour boiled water, and then cook for about 1 minute.Thus, the first cup of tea is available for drinking.
The second cup of tea is called sweet tea.When the guest drinks the first cup of tea, the host contains,bakes, and boils tea again with a small sand pot.The method is the same as that of making the first cup.At the same time, put a small number of chopped walnuts, brown sugar powder, dairy slices in the tea cup and pour the boiled tea soup into the cup.Thus, the second cup of tea is available for drinking.
图4-15 白族三道茶
（四）包烧茶
基诺族人最有特色的是包烧茶，包烧茶就是将粗老的大叶种鲜叶用芭蕉叶包好，埋入火塘的灰堆里，烧至芭蕉叶焦黄，茶叶散发清香，取出包烧好的茶叶，放入壶中煮饮，也可以放入茶杯直接开水泡饮。
图4-16 基诺族包烧茶
The third cup of tea is called aftertaste tea.The method of containing, baking, and boiling tea is the same as that of the first cup.Take another clay pot and put several pepper seeds, ginger, and appropriate amount of cinnamon in the pot.Then, add water for boiling and pour the boiled tea and soup into the cup.Finally, add a proper amount of honey, thus the aftertaste tea is available for drinking.
Fig.4-15 Bai’s three-cup tea
(IV)Banana-leaf-covered Big-leaf Tea
Jinuo’s most distinctive tea is the banana-leaf-covered big-leaf tea.Its making method is to wrap the thick and old fresh big-leaf tea with banana leaves, bury them in the ashes of a fire pit, and burn them until the banana leaves turn brown and the tea leaves give off fragrance.Next, take out the baked tea, boil it in a pot, or put it in a cup for direct brewing.
Fig.4-16 Banana-leaf-covered big-leaf tea of Jinuo