IV.Qing Dynasty
(I)“History of Tea”(in 1669)
It was written by Liu Yuanchang in the Qing Dynasty in around the eighth year of Kangxi Period (1669), and was printed by Liu Qianji, the son of Liu Yuanchang, in 1675.It is recorded in volume one of the book that:
“Pu’er tea of Yunnan is a real wonder and not easy to get”.
This gives high praise to Pu’er tea, and the“real wonder”shows that the quality of Pu’er tea is far superior to other tea products;“Not easy to get”shows that Pu’er tea was precious and not for people of all social ranks to drink.
(II)“Records of Yuanjiang Prefecture”(in 1714)
It was written by Zhang Lvcheng, and it is firstly recorded that:
“Pu’er tea is produced in Pu’er mountain, and its warm nature and aroma make the tea different from those produced in other areas”.
The origin of the Pu’er tea was pointed out here, and Pu’er tea got its name because it grew in Pu’er Mountain.
(III)“General Annals of Yunnan”(in Yongzheng Period)
It is recorded in volume three“Youle County”:
“Six tea mountains are Youle tea mountain in the present Tongzhi official’s administrative area, Mangzhi tea mountain 110km in the northeast, Gedeng tea mountain 130km away, Manzhuan tea mountain 170km away, Yibang tea mountain 182.5 km away, and Mansa tea mountain 260km away.These tea mountains are connected and covered with mostly tea trees.”
“The relics of the six tea mountains are all in the south of the city.It is said that Zhuge Liang went to all six tea mountains, and left a bronze gong in Youle, a rivet in Mangzhi, an iron brick in Manduan, a wooden rat-tat in Yibang, a saddle iron in Gedeng and a bag in Mansa.Therefore,these tea mountains get their names.Furthermore, there is a tea king tree in Mangzhi tea mountain,which is larger than tea trees in other five tea mountains.This tea king tree is said to be planted by Zhuge Liang, and native people still offer sacrifices to it”.
卷二十六载：
“六茶山遗器俱在城南境。旧传武侯遍历六山，留铜锣于攸乐；置铆于莽芝；埋铁砖于蛮耑；遗木梆于倚邦；埋马镫于革登；置撒袋于慢撒。因以名其山。又，莽芝有茶王树，较五山茶树独大，相传为武侯遗种，今夷民犹祀之。”
（四）《续茶经》（1734年）
清代陆廷灿所辑的续补《茶经》之作书载：
“《云南通志》：茶山，在元江府城西北普洱界。……普洱茶，出元江府普洱山，性温味香。”
该记录转抄康熙《云南通志》元江府山川条下所载“茶山，在元江府城西北普洱界”，普洱府于雍正七年（1729年）设立，设府前属元江府管辖，故称“元江府普洱山”。
（五）《滇云历年传》（1737年）
清人倪蜕著，书载：
“鄂尔泰奏设总茶店于思茅，以通判司其事。”
可知当时普洱茶交易已引起朝廷重视，普洱茶所带来的巨大经济效益催生了官方总茶店的设立，朝廷加强了对普洱茶交易的管理。
（六）《滇海虞衡志》（1799年）
檀萃著，成书于嘉庆四年（1799年），其卷十一载：
“普茶名重于天下，此滇之所以为产而资利赖者也，出普洱所属六茶山：一曰攸乐，二曰革登，三曰倚邦，四曰莽枝，五曰蛮耑，六曰慢撒。周八百里，入山作茶者数十万人。茶客收买运于各处，每盈路，可谓大钱粮矣。尝疑普茶不知显自何时？宋自南渡后，于桂林之静江军以茶易西番之马，是谓滇南无茶也。故范公志桂林自以司马政，而不言西蕃之有茶。顷检李石《续博物志》云：茶出银生诸山，采无时，杂椒姜烹而饮之。普洱古属银生府，则西番之用普茶，已自唐时。……茶山有茶王树，较五茶山独大，本武侯遗种，至今夷民祀之。倚邦、蛮耑茶味较胜。……大理有感通寺茶，省城有太华寺茶，然出不多，不能如普洱之盛。”
(IV)Follow-Up of the Classic of Tea (in 1734)
It is a book written by Lu Tingcan in the Qing Dynasty as a supplement to The Classic of Tea,and it is recorded that:
“Annals of Yunnan”: tea mountains are in Pu’er in northwest of Yuanjiang Prefecture…Pu’er tea is the local product of Pu’er Mountain in Yuanjiang Prefecture, and it has a warm nature and good aroma.”
The“tea mountains are in Pu’er in northwest of Yuanjiang Prefecture”is recorded in the part about landscapes in Yuanjiang Prefecture of“Annals of Yunnan”in the Kangxi Period.Pu’er Prefecture was established in the 7th year of Yongzheng Period (in 1729), and before it had been administrated by Yuanjiang Prefecture, so it was called“Pu’er Mountain of Yuanjiang Prefecture”.
(V)“Annual Records of Yunnan”(in 1737)
It is written by Ni Tui in the Qing Dynasty, and it is stated that:
“Eertai set the official tea shop in Simao to administrate the tea trade.”
It can be seen that Pu’er tea trade attracted the attention of the imperial court, and the huge economic benefit from Pu’er tea resulted in the establishment of the official tea shop for the court to strengthen administration over Pu’er tea trade.
(VI)Local Chronicles of Yunnan (in 1799)
It was written by Tan Cui in the 4th year of Jiaqing period (in 1799), and it is recorded in volume 11 that:
“Pu’er tea is famous in the world.The tea is the local product and source of economic benefits.There are six tea mountains producing Pu’er tea, namely Youle tea mountain, Gedeng tea mountain, Yibang tea mountain, Mangzhi tea mountain, Manduan tea mountain and Mansa tea mountain.Ten thousand of people in these six tea mountains are engaged in tea business.Tea merchants buy Pu’er tea here and sell it in other areas to make huge profits.I have doubt when Pu’er tea became famous.In the Song Dynasty, Jingjiang army in Guilin traded tea for horse from western countries, and there was no tea in South Yunnan.Therefore, there was the Horse Administrative Official in Guilin and no tea in Yunnan.Later it is recorded in“Continued Natural History Record”written by Li Shi that tea is produced in mountains in Yinsheng, and the picked tea is cooked together with pepper and ginger.Pu’er was produced by Yinsheng Prefecture, and Pu’er tea was delivered to western countries in the Tang Dynasty…There is a tea king tree in the tea mountain, which is the largest among tea trees in five tea mountains.This tea tree is said to be planted by Zhuge Liang, and up to this date the native people still offer sacrifice to it.The quality of tea from Yibang and Manduan tea mountains are better… Gantongsi tea is produced in Daili, and Taihuasi tea is produced in the Capital City.However, the production is not as much as Pu’er tea.”
该段所载，多系辑抄他书而来。
图3-11 《滇海虞衡志》部分文字记载
（七）《云南通志稿》（1835年）
阮元著，其“地理志·山川·普洱府·攸乐茶山”条下载：
“旧《云南通志》：六茶山之一，产茶。”
“六茶山”条下载：
“谨案：并在九龙江以北，猡梭江以南，山势连属数百里，上多茶树，革登有茶王树。《一统志》有普洱山，在府境，山产茶，性温味香，异于他产，名普洱茶，府亦以是名焉。引《滇程记》：自景东府行一百里至者乐甸，又行一日至镇沅府，又二日达车里宜慰司，又二日至普洱山，想即此。”
该书在地理志、食货志两部分对普洱茶山、普洱茶均作了记载，书引道光《云南通志》、乾隆《一统志》之旧说，复引杨慎《滇程记》之里程记载，认为杨慎所说普洱山应该就是六大茶山。
（八）道光《普洱府志》（1840年）
郑绍谦著，其序载：
“威远、宁洱产盐，思茅产茶，民之衣食资焉。”
该书对普洱茶的记载尤为详细，多处提到普洱茶及其相关内容。该处记载指明茶叶是重要的经济作物，是百姓衣食之源。
卷八载：
“茶，产普洱府边外六大茶山。其树似紫薇，无皮曲拳而高，叶尖而长，花白色，结实圆勺如栟榈子，蒂似丁香，根如胡桃。土人以茶果种之，数年新株长成，叶极变密。老树则叶稀多瘤，如云雾状，大者制为瓶，甚古雅；细者如栲栳可为杖。茶味优劣别之以山，首数蛮砖、次倚邦、次易武、次莽芝。其地有茶王树，大数围，土人岁以牲醴祭之。其漫撒，次攸乐，最下则平川产者名坝子茶。此六大茶山之所产也。其余小山甚多，而以蛮松产者为上，大约茶性所宜，总以产红土带砂石之阪者多清芬耳。茶之嫩老则又别之以时，二月采者为芽茶，即白毛尖；三四月采者为小满茶；六七月采者为谷花茶。熬膏外则蒸而为饼，有方有圆，圆者为筒子茶，为大团茶，小至四两者为五子圆。拣茶时其叶黄者名金蝶，卷者名疙瘩茶。每岁除采办贡茶外，商贾货之远方。按：思茅厅每岁承办贡茶，倒于藩库银息项下支银一千两转发采办，并置收茶锡瓶、缎匣、木箱等费，每年备贡者：五斤重团茶，三斤重团茶，一斤重团茶，四两重团茶，一两五钱重团茶；又瓶承芽茶、蕊茶，匣盛茶膏，共八色。”
The record is deduced to be a copy of other books.
Fig.3-11 Excerpt of“Local Chronicles of Yunnan”
(VII)“Draft of Yunnan General Annals”(in 1835)
It is written by Ruan Yuan and recorded in“Geography Information ·Landscapes ·Pu’er Prefecture·Youle Tea Mountain”:
“It is recorded in former ‘Yunnan General Annals’that one of six tea mountains produces tea”.
It is recorded in“six tea mountains”that:
“It is ascertained that there are many tea trees in the mountains in the north of Jiulong River and south of Luosuo River, and there is a tea king tree in Gedeng.According to Records of United Qing Dynasty, there is Pu’er Mountain within the prefecture.The tea here has a warm nature and good aroma, which is called Pu’er tea different from the tea of other places.This prefecture is famous for this tea.According to the Records of Geography in Yunnan, it is 50km from Jingdong Prefecture to Ledian, it takes one day to reach Zhenyuan Prefecture, two days to reach Chelixuanwei Government,and another two days to Pu’er Mountain, which is considered as the origin of Pu’er tea.”
Records about Pu’er tea mountain and Pu’er tea are made in the geography part and food part of this book.Records from“Yunnan General Annals”in the Daoguang Period,“Records of United Qing Dynasty”and“Records of Geography in Yunnan”are quoted, and it is agreed that Pu’er mountain according to Yang Shen is six major tea mountains.
(VIII)Records of Pu’er Prefecture in the Reign of Emperor Daoguang (in 1840)
It is written by Zheng Shaoqian and recorded in the preface that:
“Weiyuan and Ning’er produce sault, and Simao produces tea, and local people make a living with these resources.”
“Tea is produced in six tea mountains in Pu’er Prefecture.The tea trees look like crape myrtle with long and pointed leaves, white flowers, fruits like those of palm trees, the base of fruits like that of Syzygium aromaticum and roots like that of walnuts.Local people plant them, tea trees grow high in several years, and the leaves are thick.Old tea trees have thin leaves and many burls.The large ones could be made into ornaments, which look elegant.The thin ones may be made as crutches.The taste of the tea is distinguished by the origin.The tea from Manzhuan is the best, followed by the tea from Yibang, Yiwu and Mangzhi.There is a tea king tree so large that it needs several people to extend their arms to encircle it.Local people offer sacrifice to it every year.Tea from Mansa is of inferior quality, followed by tea from Youle and Bazi tea from Pingchuan.The introduction above is about tea from six tea mountains.The rest tea mountains are small, and tea from Mansong has the best quality.The tea nature is good, and those produced on red soil with sand have faint aroma.The tender and old tea is distinguished by the picking time, and the tea picked in February is the shoot tea, which is called Baimaojian; the tea picked in March and April is Grain Buds tea; the tea picked in June and July is Grain Rain tea.The cake is boiled and steamed into square or round cakes.Round cakes are tube cakes or Datuan tea, while 200g of cake is Wuziyuan cake.The golden tea is called Golden Butterfly, and the curly tea is called the Curly Tea.In addition to the tribute tea, the rest tea is sold to places far away.Note: Simao Official Office collects tribute tea every year, and draws 50kg of silver to buy tea pots, boxes, wooden boxes, etc.every year.The 2.5kg tea cake, 1.5 tea cake, 0.5kg tea cake, 200g tea cake and 75g tea cake are different types of tribute tea; they are put in eight different colors of bottles containing shoot and tender leaf tea, and the tea pastes are put in cases.”
全段对普洱茶树形、产地、分类、树种、品质、茶叶类别及名称、贡茶采办等情况均做了记载。同时，对相关的文献记载作了援引和考证，对六大茶山名称的异同作了比较和记录。是对普洱茶记载相对全面的文献。
卷九载：
“普洱府，民皆速夷，性朴风淳，蛮民杂居，以茶为市。《大清一统志》：衣食仰给茶山，服饰率从朴素。旧《云南通志》：夷汉杂居，男女交易，士农乐业，盐茶通商。思茅厅，五方杂处，仰食茶山。”
本处从风俗的角度对普洱茶在普洱府百姓生活中的作用均做了简介，从中可以看出，普洱茶不仅是当时通商贸易的主要经济作物，还是边疆民族生活中不可或缺的重要物资。尤其是在思茅厅，普洱茶成为当地百姓的衣食之源。
卷二十载：
“六茶山遗器，俱在城南境。旧传武侯遍历六山，留铜锣于攸乐，置铆于莽芝，埋铁砖于蛮砖，遗木梆于倚邦，埋马镫于革登，置撒袋于曼撒，因此名其山。又，莽芝有茶王树，较五山茶树独大，相传为武侯遗种，今夷民犹祀之。”
此处对六大茶山的得名及茶王树传说作了记载。
（九）嘉庆《大清一统志》（1842年）
卷四六八载：
“普洱山，在府境，山产茶，性温味香，异于他产，名普洱茶，府以是名焉。”
The whole section records the tree shape, origin, classification, tree species, quality, tea category and name, tribute tea purchase, etc.of Pu’er tea.At the same time, the relevant literature records are cited and textual research, and the similarities and differences of the names of the six tea mountains are compared and recorded.It is a relatively comprehensive record on Pu’er tea.
It is recorded in volume 9 that:
“Pu’er Prefecture is resided by ethnic groups.The native people are simple and honest.Different ethnic groups live together and earn a living by planting tea.“Records of United Qing Dynasty”records that native people earn a living by working in tea mountains, and their clothes are simple.The old“Annals of Yunnan”records that ethnic groups and Han Nationality live together.Both men and women do business.Scholars and farmers work in peace and contentment, and salt and tea are traded.Simao Prefecture is located in the boundary of five jurisdictions and people here make a living by working in tea mountains”.
From the perspective of customs, a brief introduction to the role of Pu’er tea in the lives of the people in Pu’er Prefecture is provided, from which we can see that Pu’er tea was not only the main economic crop for trade at that time, but also an indispensable and important material in the life of nationalities in the border area.Especially in Simao Prefecture, Pu’er tea has become the way for local people to make a living.
It is recorded in volume 20 that:
“The relics of the six tea mountains are all in the south of the city.It is said that Zhuge Liang went to all six tea mountains, and left a bronze gong in Youle, a rivet in Mangzhi, an iron brick in Manduan, a wooden rat-tat in Yibang, a saddle iron in Gedeng and a bag in Mansa.Therefore,these tea mountains get their names.Furthermore, there is a tea king tree in Mangzhi tea mountain,which is larger than tea trees in other five tea mountains.This tea king tree is said to be planted by Zhuge Liang, and native people still offer sacrifices to it”.
“蛮民杂居，以茶为市。”
此记载指明普洱府境内的普洱山产茶，且茶性茶香皆与其它茶类不同，并强调“名普洱茶，府以是名焉”，说明普洱府之得名来自普洱山。“以茶为市”说明当时茶叶贸易已经成为普洱府的支柱产业。
（十）光绪《钦定大清会典事例》（1899年刻本）
卷三九六载：
“乾隆五十四年，安南国王遣使入贡，共赏五次。初次赏安南国王普洱茶团七，茶膏二盒。二次赏普洱茶团四，茶膏二匣。三次赏普洱茶团四。”
卷三九七载：
“乾隆五十五年，安南国王率世子陪臣亲诣阙廷……赐该国王茶叶六瓶，大团茶二。同年八月，在圆明园赐国王十四次，初次赏普洱茶团一，茶叶二瓶 ……”
“乾隆五十八年，缅甸国王遣使祝贺，特赐国王茶叶十瓶。正使茶叶六瓶，茶膏二匣，大普洱茶团二个。副使二员，茶叶各四瓶，茶膏各一盒，小普洱茶团各十个。”
该书对乾隆赏赐普洱茶的情况进行了记载，从中可看出当时乾隆对普洱茶的喜爱以及普洱茶在宫廷里的地位及流行程度，普洱茶经常成为馈赠外宾的国礼之选。
（十一）光绪《普洱府志》（1900年）
陈宗海著，卷十七载：
“《大清会典事例》：雍正十三年，题准云南商贩，茶系每七圆为简，重四十九两，征收税银三钱二分。于十三年为始，颁给茶引三千饬，发各商行销办课，作为定额造册题销。又，乾隆十三年议准云南茶引，颁发到省，转发丽江府，由该府按月给商赴普洱贩卖，运往鹤庆州之中甸各番夷地方行销，其稽查盘验，由邛塘关金沙江渡口照引查点，按例抽税。其填给部引赴中甸通判衙门呈缴，分季汇报，未填残引，由丽江府年终缴司。”
此处记录了雍正十三年（1735年）和乾隆十三年（1748年）朝廷征收茶税的情况。
卷十九载：
“《思茅厅采访》：茶有六山，倚邦、架布、嶍崆、蛮砖、革登、易武。气味随土性而异，生于赤土或土中杂石者最佳。消食、散寒、解毒。于二月间采，蕊极细而白，谓之毛尖，以作贡。贡后方许民间贩卖。采而蒸之，揉为圆饼。其叶之少放而嫩者，名芽茶。采于三四月者，名小满茶。采于六七月者，名谷花茶。大而紧者，名紧团茶。小而圆者，名女儿茶。女儿茶为妇女所采，于雨前得之，即四两重团茶也。其人商贩之手，而外细内粗者，名改造茶。将揉时预择其内之劲黄而不卷者，名金月天。其固结而不解者，名疙瘩茶，味极厚。难得种茶之家，芟锄备至。旁生草木则味劣难售。或与他物同器，则染其气而不堪饮矣。”
It is the record about the naming of the six tea mountains and the legend of the tea king tree.
(IX)“Records of United Qing Dynasty”(Jia Qing)Period (in 1842)
It is recorded in volume 468 that:
“Pu’er tea is produced in Pu’er mountain, and its warm nature and aroma make the tea different from those produced in other areas.The tea is named Pu’er tea, and the prefecture is named after the tea”.
“People of different ethnic groups live together and sell tea”.
This record indicates that Pu’er mountain in the territory of Pu’er Prefecture produces tea, and the tea aroma is different from other kinds of tea, and emphasizes that“Pu’er Prefecture is named after Pu’er mountain”, indicating that the name of Pu’er Prefecture comes from Pu’er mountain.“Selling tea”shows that tea trade had become the pillar industry of Pu’er Prefecture at that time.
(X)Records about Laws and Systems of the Qing Dynasty (Guangxu Period)(Block-printed Edition in the 25th Year of Guangxu Period (in 1899))
It is recorded in volume 396 that:
“In the 54th year of the Qianlong Period, an envoy was sent by the emperor of Annan Kingdom to offer tribute, and the envoy received awards for five times, seven Pu’er tea cakes for the first time, four Pu’er tea cakes and two cases of tea for the second time, and four Pu’er tea cakes for the third time”.
It is recorded in volume 397 that:
“In the 55th year of the Qianlong Period, the emperor of the Annan Kingdom took his son to visit Emperor Qianlong in person… he received rewards of six bottles of tea and two tea cakes.In August of the same year, he got gifts from Emperor Qianlong in the Summer Palace for 14 times,one Pu’er cake and two bottles of tea for the first time…”
“In the 58th year of the Qianlong Period, the emperor of Myanmar sent an envoy to send greetings, and the envoys received 10 bottles of tea.The chief envoy got six bottles of tea, two cases of tea, and two large tea cakes.The two deputy envoys got four bottles of tea, one case of tea and ten small Pu’er tea cakes respectively.”
This book records the reward of Pu’er tea in the Qianlong Period, from which we can see Emperor Qianlong’s love for Pu’er tea and its status and popularity in the court at that time.Pu’er tea often became the choice of national rites for foreign guests.
(XI)Records of Pu’er Prefecture in the Reign of Emperor Guangxu (in 1900)
It is recorded in volume 17 that:
“Records about Laws and Systems of the Qing Dynasty: in the 13th year of Yongzheng Period, vendors of Yunnan were permitted to sell tea.The tea was 2.45kg and 15g of silver was levied.Since the 13th year of Yongzheng Period, Emperor Yongzheng issued 3,000 tea business licensees.Furthermore, in the 13th year of the Qianlong Period, tea business licenses were permitted to be issued to the province and then Lijiang Prefecture.Lijiang Prefecture gave the tea business license to vendors on a monthly basis to buy tea from Pu’er and sell the tea in other places.The tea business license served as an official permit for inspection and taxation.The issued tea business licenses were reported on a quarterly basis, and the expired ones were collected by Lijiang Prefecture at the end of the year”.
该记载指出了普洱茶的重要品质特征“气味随土性而异”，对“女儿茶”的概念进行了诠释，对普洱茶“旁生草木则味劣难售，或与他物同器，则染其气而不堪饮矣”极易窜味的特点做了说明。
（十二）光绪《续修顺宁府志》
卷十三茶叶一条下载：
“茶，旧《志》：味淡而微香，及思普各大茶山远甚，又其次者抵销行西藏古宗。”
顺宁府，治所在云南凤庆县，其管辖范围大约包含今天的保山昌宁、临沧凤庆、云县等地。顺宁也是云南的重要茶区之一，该书所载“及思普各大茶山远甚”，认为顺宁茶的品质较之思普茶山稍显逊色，对普洱茶山所产普洱茶的品质作了肯定。
The tea tax levied by the imperial court in the 13th year of the Yongzheng Period (1735)and the 13th year of the Qianlong Period (1748)was recorded here.
It is recorded in volume 19 that:
“‘Interview in Simao Prefecture’: Tea is produced in six tea mountains, namely Yibang, Jiabu,Xikong, Manzhuan, Gedeng and Yiwu.The aroma of the tea is distinguished by the origin.The tea picked from tea trees growing in red soil or soil mixed with rubbles.The tea has the efficacy of stimulating food digestion, expelling cold and detoxifying.The tea picked in February is the shoot tea, which is called Maojian as the tribute tea.Only after the tribute tea is selected, the tea could be traded among civilians.The tea is picked, steamed and made into round cakes.It is named shoot tea because of very few leaves and mostly shoots.The tea picked in March and April is Grain Buds tea;the tea picked in June and July is Grain Rain tea.The large and compact tea cakes are called Tuan Tea.The small and round tea cakes are Women’s Tea, which is picked by women before Grain Rain and made into 200g tea cakes.The tea becomes remade tea after it is changed by vendors.Thegolden and straight tea leaves are called Golden Tea.The compacted and curly tea leaves are called Curly Tea with intense aroma.The tea growers work hard on the land, and if other plants grow with tea trees or if the tea is put in other containers withodor, the tea will be of poor quality to drink.”
It points out that the important quality feature of Pu’er tea is“the aroma varies with the soil”,explains the concept of“women’s tea”, and explains the feature that Pu’er tea is very easy to taste“if other plants grow with tea trees or if the tea is put in other containers withodor, the tea will be of poor quality to drink.”
(XII)Follow-Up of Records of Shunning Prefecture in the Reign of Emperor Guangxu
It is recorded in volume 13 that:
“According to the‘Records’before, tea has faint taste and aroma.Shunning tea is second to the tea produced in tea mountains in Sipu tea mountains, and the tea of not good quality is sold to Xizang.”
The capital of Shunning Prefecture was Fengqing County, Yunnan, and theadministrative area covered Changning of Baoshan, Fengqing of Lincang, Yunxian County, etc.today.Shunning is also one of important tea production areas in Yunnan.It is recorded in the book that“Shunning tea is second to the tea produced in Sipu tea mountains”, confirming the quality of Pu’er tea produced in Pu’er tea mountains.